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Medtner3 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 187 Joined: 7-July 20 From: Cedar Park Member No.: 24,467 Region Association: None ![]() |
Just rebuilt my rear calipers with seals from PMB Performance. Using a vacuum brake bleeder I started with the right rear caliper lower bleeder screw ( I have two screws) and initially pulled about an inch of brake fluid with lots of bubbles and then zip. I get zero brake fluid now.
What could cause this? I have no signs of any leaks and the brakes were not bad before I rebuilt the calipers. I read somewhere that I might need to bleed the proportioning valve or even pump into the caliper some brake fluid through the top bleeder ? I ordered a Motive pressure bleeder which arrives in a few days Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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davep |
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#2
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914 Historian ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,300 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada ![]() ![]() |
On a caliper with two bleed nipples, the top is the bleed, and the bottom is a drain; only bleed with the top nipple. Air bubbles rise you know.
When bleeding the system, keep checking the reservoir to be sure it is full by removing the cap and looking down inside. The reservoir is divided by a half barrier into front & rear so an external glance may not reveal that the other half is empty. If a half does empty, then you will have to do a long bleed to ensure any air introduced at the reservoir is removed. Pedal bleeding ensures that high pressure is able to be achieved, and it also crushes bubbles and helps them move through the system; keeping them from being trapped within things like the pressure regulator. So I like to finish a bleed with pedal bleeding after using either a vacuum bleed or an air pressure bleed method. |
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