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Medtner3 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 187 Joined: 7-July 20 From: Cedar Park Member No.: 24,467 Region Association: None ![]() |
Just rebuilt my rear calipers with seals from PMB Performance. Using a vacuum brake bleeder I started with the right rear caliper lower bleeder screw ( I have two screws) and initially pulled about an inch of brake fluid with lots of bubbles and then zip. I get zero brake fluid now.
What could cause this? I have no signs of any leaks and the brakes were not bad before I rebuilt the calipers. I read somewhere that I might need to bleed the proportioning valve or even pump into the caliper some brake fluid through the top bleeder ? I ordered a Motive pressure bleeder which arrives in a few days Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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mb911 |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,614 Joined: 2-January 09 From: Burlington wi Member No.: 9,892 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
Kind of have the same issue.. The entire brake system is new and I still can't get a good pedal.. Hope I didn't damage the new MC.
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iankarr |
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#3
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The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,567 Joined: 22-May 15 From: Heber City, UT Member No.: 18,749 Region Association: Intermountain Region ![]() ![]() |
Kind of have the same issue.. The entire brake system is new and I still can't get a good pedal.. Hope I didn't damage the new MC. How would you have damaged the MC? It's unlikely, unless you pushed the pedal to the limit while bleeding. Easy to avoid by putting a wood block behind the pedal. When the system is new, it definitely takes a bit of work and several round-trip bleeds to get the pedal firm. I also found it helped when I took a syringe and shot brake fluid up through the lower bleed screws (and out the tops). Speed bleeders help a lot, as you can use them alone, or in conjunction with a pressure bleeder like the motive. Took me nearly 2 liters of fluid to get the pedal firm. Also, if you've got new pads and rotors, they need to be bedded in...and that will affect your braking power. See the procedure on the PMB site. Eric also has a great writeup on gravity bleeding... https://www.pmbperformance.com/914tech.html Be safe and enjoy! |
mb911 |
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#4
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,614 Joined: 2-January 09 From: Burlington wi Member No.: 9,892 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
Kind of have the same issue.. The entire brake system is new and I still can't get a good pedal.. Hope I didn't damage the new MC. How would you have damaged the MC? It's unlikely, unless you pushed the pedal to the limit while bleeding. Easy to avoid by putting a wood block behind the pedal. When the system is new, it definitely takes a bit of work and several round-trip bleeds to get the pedal firm. I also found it helped when I took a syringe and shot brake fluid up through the lower bleed screws (and out the tops). Speed bleeders help a lot, as you can use them alone, or in conjunction with a pressure bleeder like the motive. Took me nearly 2 liters of fluid to get the pedal firm. Also, if you've got new pads and rotors, they need to be bedded in...and that will affect your braking power. See the procedure on the PMB site. Eric also has a great writeup on gravity bleeding... https://www.pmbperformance.com/914tech.html Be safe and enjoy! I am concerned it pushed down too far. I have a very soft pedal. Will try to bleed again soon. |
Medtner3 |
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#5
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 187 Joined: 7-July 20 From: Cedar Park Member No.: 24,467 Region Association: None ![]() |
Kind of have the same issue.. The entire brake system is new and I still can't get a good pedal.. Hope I didn't damage the new MC. How would you have damaged the MC? It's unlikely, unless you pushed the pedal to the limit while bleeding. Easy to avoid by putting a wood block behind the pedal. When the system is new, it definitely takes a bit of work and several round-trip bleeds to get the pedal firm. I also found it helped when I took a syringe and shot brake fluid up through the lower bleed screws (and out the tops). Speed bleeders help a lot, as you can use them alone, or in conjunction with a pressure bleeder like the motive. Took me nearly 2 liters of fluid to get the pedal firm. Also, if you've got new pads and rotors, they need to be bedded in...and that will affect your braking power. See the procedure on the PMB site. Eric also has a great writeup on gravity bleeding... https://www.pmbperformance.com/914tech.html Be safe and enjoy! I am concerned it pushed down too far. I have a very soft pedal. Will try to bleed again soon. The Master is fine it was just air in system still |
Medtner3 |
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#6
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 187 Joined: 7-July 20 From: Cedar Park Member No.: 24,467 Region Association: None ![]() |
Kind of have the same issue.. The entire brake system is new and I still can't get a good pedal.. Hope I didn't damage the new MC. How would you have damaged the MC? It's unlikely, unless you pushed the pedal to the limit while bleeding. Easy to avoid by putting a wood block behind the pedal. When the system is new, it definitely takes a bit of work and several round-trip bleeds to get the pedal firm. I also found it helped when I took a syringe and shot brake fluid up through the lower bleed screws (and out the tops). Speed bleeders help a lot, as you can use them alone, or in conjunction with a pressure bleeder like the motive. Took me nearly 2 liters of fluid to get the pedal firm. Also, if you've got new pads and rotors, they need to be bedded in...and that will affect your braking power. See the procedure on the PMB site. Eric also has a great writeup on gravity bleeding... https://www.pmbperformance.com/914tech.html Be safe and enjoy! I am concerned it pushed down too far. I have a very soft pedal. Will try to bleed again soon. The Master is fine it was just air in system still but I have yet to try gravity bleeding. I intend to bed the pads in as soon as I am comfortable with the pedal firm enough |
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