Another GT Look-a-Likey Project thread, Made a gas strut lifted air dam to clear my driveway Options

[john77]

Started the process of GT flaring my car this week.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-17027-1601589977.1.jpg)

The plan is to weld all four flares on first, then widen the rears to fit 9s, and in the process strip the car panel by panel for a repaint.

The rear arches had been pulled at some point in the 90s to fit 7s, and I knew they'd gone to town with bondo to smooth the driver's side out because there was a crack. The picture below is a cross section cut through the arch once I removed it... that's 0.5 inches of bondo right there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-17027-1601589886.1.jpg)

After making the initial rough cuts it dawned on me I'm probably going to need to remove the rear quarter oil tank to give me enough clearance to tig weld the flare on the front and back.

I can only see one bolt, inside the engine bay - is that the only thing holding the tank in place?

Also, dumb question, can I remove the tank without having to drain my engine oil first? I didn't think this far ahead and only changed my oil last month (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Literati914]

@john77

Wow I was surprised to read your thread and come across someone else willing to roll paint onto their car !! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . I have my project car (which is outdoors/unprotected) in epoxy primer now after stripping it down to bare metal, then rolling it on with 4" rollers from Home Depot (don't laugh). The thing is, I expected a good amount of orange peal - which I got, 'cause I plan on blocking it down (filler work was done before the epoxy). Then I plan to roll on polyester primer surfacer (2K high build primer).. and block it down too. My time is free, so..

But that brings me to a consideration that I wonder if you'd thought about.. and that is, while the epoxy primer creates a sort of hard shell that doesn't easily/quickly soak up moisture - the 2K high build would. So you'd want to be ready to spray once you get the 2K blocked down straight. But nothing says it couldn't be sprayed a panel at a time.

I hate to admit this but I've actually even thought about rolling on the UA single stage paint that I'll be using. I mean, I do have the compressor and spray equipment but if you plan to wet sand the entire car anyway.. I'm not sure it wouldn't work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . The advantages for me being that I would not have to invest in purchasing and putting up a temporary garage to shoot in, seal it, purchase exhaust fans, etc. Also, the lack of highly aerosol-ed paint may not smell as bad and get the attention of fewer pissed off neighbors. Not to mention, may be less hazardous to me - I don't completely trust the respirator/masks (though I'd still wear one) - and professional paint is dangerous stuff. But, I have not decided against spraying either. So I will be getting an idea of it's feasibility by rolling it on the under-side of the car, wheel wells and longs first. I know this is probably crazy, but we'll see before going all in on the visible parts of the car. Anyway, your project is coming along nicely, keep it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[john77]

@Literati914

The roll on epoxy I have is 2K and, if Eastwood’s to be believed, is self-leveling. As long as I prep the metal correctly I don’t see orange peel being an issue.

My plan is to only do epoxy so I don’t have to worry about moisture. I’ll only do primer surfacer and block when I’m ready for color/clear.

Can you sand color? I was under the impression if you do you have to do another coat or it will show through the clear.

@john77

Wow I was surprised to read your thread and come across someone else willing to roll paint onto their car !! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . I have my project car (which is outdoors/unprotected) in epoxy primer now after stripping it down to bare metal, then rolling it on with 4" rollers from Home Depot (don't laugh). The thing is, I expected a good amount of orange peal - which I got, 'cause I plan on blocking it down (filler work was done before the epoxy). Then I plan to roll on polyester primer surfacer (2K high build primer).. and block it down too. My time is free, so..

But that brings me to a consideration that I wonder if you'd thought about.. and that is, while the epoxy primer creates a sort of hard shell that doesn't easily/quickly soak up moisture - the 2K high build would. So you'd want to be ready to spray once you get the 2K blocked down straight. But nothing says it couldn't be sprayed a panel at a time.

I hate to admit this but I've actually even thought about rolling on the UA single stage paint that I'll be using. I mean, I do have the compressor and spray equipment but if you plan to wet sand the entire car anyway.. I'm not sure it wouldn't work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . The advantages for me being that I would not have to invest in purchasing and putting up a temporary garage to shoot in, seal it, purchase exhaust fans, etc. Also, the lack of highly aerosol-ed paint may not smell as bad and get the attention of fewer pissed off neighbors. Not to mention, may be less hazardous to me - I don't completely trust the respirator/masks (though I'd still wear one) - and professional paint is dangerous stuff. But, I have not decided against spraying either. So I will be getting an idea of it's feasibility by rolling it on the under-side of the car, wheel wells and longs first. I know this is probably crazy, but we'll see before going all in on the visible parts of the car. Anyway, your project is coming along nicely, keep it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)