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rjames |
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#1
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,309 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Drove around for 30 minutes in 80+ degree weather. All arterial roads, so several stop lights, etc. No problems until I was almost home. Car stalled when I stopped at a light. RPMs just dropped to zero. Was able to start it again with a little difficulty and had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from stalling out again. Power seemed ok though the rest of the way home (I think). It stalled once again at a stop light a couple of blocks from home and then again when I pulled in the driveway. I let it sit for 30 seconds, started it again and it idled just fine. Rock solid at 1000 RPMs. Pulled it into the garage where it sits now.
Prior to today the car has been running and idling perfectly since I went through the FI parts last year, which included installing a 123 distributor, new CHT sensor, a newly rebuilt mps (calibrated for correct afr on my engine), new vacuum hoses, NOS throttle body, rebuilt injectors, new fuel pump, valve adjustment and timing. I haven’t checked the AFR since last year, not sure why it would change though. It’s a ‘75 so the fuel pump is in the front, so I can rule out vapor lock I think. Anyone have ideas as to why it would be stalling? |
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rjames |
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#2
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,309 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Compression #s with engine warm, all plugs removed and throttle open:
110, 110, 130, 131 |
euro911 |
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#3
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,911 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Compression #s with engine warm, all plugs removed and throttle open: Robert, I haven't read the entire thread, so pardon me if this has already been addressed.110, 110, 130, 131 Which cylinders have the low compression #s. 1. ____ 2. ____ 3. ____ 4. ____ Have you performed a valve adjustment? If not, do so, then check compression again. I had a hunting idle on the '71 (1.7L) when I first acquired the car. I replaced all the vacuum lines, adjusted points, set ignition timing, etc., but after adjusting the valves (right bank valves were too tight, not completely seating), the hunting stopped (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
rjames |
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#4
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,309 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Compression #s with engine warm, all plugs removed and throttle open: Robert, I haven't read the entire thread, so pardon me if this has already been addressed.110, 110, 130, 131 Which cylinders have the low compression #s. 1. ____ 2. ____ 3. ____ 4. ____ Have you performed a valve adjustment? If not, do so, then check compression again. I had a hunting idle on the '71 (1.7L) when I first acquired the car. I replaced all the vacuum lines, adjusted points, set ignition timing, etc., but after adjusting the valves (right bank valves were too tight, not completely seating), the hunting stopped (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) No points lost for not reading through the whole thread. It's a lot to go through. I thought about starting a new post that starts off with everything I've tried, but then I'd have to re-read it myself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Valves have been adjusted. Compression check on warm engine: cyls 1 & 2: 110, cyls 3 & 4: 131 |
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