Should I or shouldn't I, to bush or not |
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Should I or shouldn't I, to bush or not |
iankarr |
Nov 27 2020, 03:17 PM
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#1
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The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K Group: Members Posts: 2,480 Joined: 22-May 15 From: Heber City, UT Member No.: 18,749 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
Hi Guys,
I've disassembled the rear of the bumblebee and the control arm pivots and bushings look to be in good shape. My plan was to blast and powdercoat the control arms, which would require removing the pivots/bushings (due to the heat)...but I hear re-installing these can be a beeotch. And I generally prefer keeping as much OEM as possible. So...do you think it's worth leaving the bushings and pivots alone and just painitng the arms? I'm aiming for this bumblebee to be a solid #2 car when done. Thoughts? Thanks! |
Montreal914 |
Nov 29 2020, 11:50 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,572 Joined: 8-August 10 From: Claremont, CA Member No.: 12,023 Region Association: Southern California |
Superhawk; Thank you for this very complete detailed explanation. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
So, unless I am mistaking, there is no rubber bushing option available today that is bonded to both the trailing arm and shaft that would recreate the factory setup, and there probably never will be. Which means that we are all stuck with this problem now or in the future, and will have to somehow compensate for this reduction of spring and dampening rate. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) To my knowledge the current market offering for these replacement are (...and please add): PolyBronze: Elephant Racing Rubber: Elephant Racing Rubber: 914Rubber Polyeurethane / Polygraphite: Various Exotic needle bearing and other mods: Custom |
914_teener |
Nov 29 2020, 12:30 PM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,204 Joined: 31-August 08 From: So. Cal Member No.: 9,489 Region Association: Southern California |
Superhawk; Thank you for this very complete detailed explanation. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) So, unless I am mistaking, there is no rubber bushing option available today that is bonded to both the trailing arm and shaft that would recreate the factory setup, and there probably never will be. Which means that we are all stuck with this problem now or in the future, and will have to somehow compensate for this reduction of spring and dampening rate. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) To my knowledge the current market offering for these replacement are (...and please add): PolyBronze: Elephant Racing Rubber: Elephant Racing Rubber: 914Rubber Polyeurethane / Polygraphite: Various Exotic needle bearing and other mods: Custom Yes to all the above....for most people they'll not notice the difference. Not many people are using the stock tires and stock struts ect. anymore. I used what was available then and the choices were more limited then. Elephant had only a hard polyurethane and PMB had sourced a hard rubber bushing and I talked with Eric several times about setups in changing these. In the end I decided on the harder rubber compound, adjusted the rear spring rate with adjustable perches and helper springs when unloading the rears would occur. I think when I went with progressive valved shocks it made huge difference and now I think you can get progressive springs which in my opinion would be another level of adjustability. Back then you'd cooiuldn't find anyone (at least at a reasonable price) to get progressive springs for a 914. I think Eibach who is here locally in So Cal is doing them. Anyway...I did a thread on them a while back. I didn't do the progressive shock valving until afterwards. I'll say this: after I did the suspension on the car....front and back it was like night and day and for those who are restoring these cars I'd do suspension first before any engine mods or work. I'd put my money there instead. Oh...and I talked to several people about powder coating......and mind you....this is not my experience but I do have experience in metalurgy, stress relieving and powdercoating. The angle(s) on the rear a arm is compound. If you look at their suspension geometry and the degress of freedom you will see why. I never experienced this problem but these are weldments and old ones at that. Check the geometry of the arm and you will need a good surface plate to do this. If these are bent you will never align the rear end of your car if it is bent. Power coating is dependent on heat to cure the powder and it is baked on with heat. If it were I.......(emphasis on vernacular) I'd paint the surface of the arms with a good quality paint after a through inspection. I'd also check the suspension console ear throughly as well. These two things are probably more important than the type of bushing used in my opinion. Good Luck and Happy Thanksgiving everyone. |
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