Should I or shouldn't I, to bush or not |
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Should I or shouldn't I, to bush or not |
iankarr |
Nov 27 2020, 03:17 PM
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#1
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The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K Group: Members Posts: 2,480 Joined: 22-May 15 From: Heber City, UT Member No.: 18,749 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
Hi Guys,
I've disassembled the rear of the bumblebee and the control arm pivots and bushings look to be in good shape. My plan was to blast and powdercoat the control arms, which would require removing the pivots/bushings (due to the heat)...but I hear re-installing these can be a beeotch. And I generally prefer keeping as much OEM as possible. So...do you think it's worth leaving the bushings and pivots alone and just painitng the arms? I'm aiming for this bumblebee to be a solid #2 car when done. Thoughts? Thanks! |
Mark Henry |
Nov 29 2020, 09:29 PM
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#2
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Thanks, but my real question was is it normal for the bare arms to just hang straight down ?
I was expecting it to not fall very far due to the stock (original) rubber bushings. FYI I'm running, 160lb progressive springs, brand new billys, 205's and a stock rear bar. I realize I'm pushing the limit of the otherwise stock suspention when I let'er rip and I think my rear bushings are OK...but then again I was wrong about the condition of my front bushings. |
Superhawk996 |
Nov 30 2020, 07:25 AM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,878 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Thanks, but my real question was is it normal for the bare arms to just hang straight down ? I was expecting it to not fall very far due to the stock (original) rubber bushings. FYI I'm running, 160lb progressive springs, brand new billys, 205's and a stock rear bar. I realize I'm pushing the limit of the otherwise stock suspention when I let'er rip and I think my rear bushings are OK...but then again I was wrong about the condition of my front bushings. @Mark Henry My mistake in reading your post. I thought you had changed bushings on both front and rear already not just the front. They should not swing to vertical freely. Probably have lost clamp load between the trailing arm pivot shaft and the body/suspension console ears and it's rotating there. With the horsepower you're running, I'd agree that console braces are probably in order. You're pushing a lot of force though suspension mounts that were never intended to handle 250HP and modern tires. I'm sure the consoles are flexing with that type of thrust. If the inner console flexes more than the outer, you end up with toe out and that will feel squirely for sure. In your case, where you're already running high HP, that is the sort of condition where I'd persoanally lean toward the Poly Bronze type bushing solutions that have less compliance when you get hard on the throttle. You will be trading ride and NVH quiteness for handling but when you start going high HP, it has cascading implications to suspension, brakes, chassis. A vehicle is a system of systems. Changes to one system affect others. My position laid out above is largely for street cars with sub 160 HP. Rember even at 165 HP that is a 50% increase in power vs. OEM /6 that started at 110 HP. And at levels around 200 HP, we already know the the factory 914/6 GT was struggling with handling stability on its race cars thus the chassis stiffening, trailing arm boxing, etc. Modern tire rubber and even more HP would only be worse. |
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