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iankarr |
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The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,567 Joined: 22-May 15 From: Heber City, UT Member No.: 18,749 Region Association: Intermountain Region ![]() ![]() |
Hey Guys,
It's new video Sunday and the the battle of the bolts has begun! In this episode I remove the brakes and prep them for @eric_shea . also pull the axles, press out the hubs and bearings and get the trailing arms ready for powder coating. Whew! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFLyAjA_XYM |
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BillC |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 680 Joined: 24-April 15 From: Silver Spring, MD Member No.: 18,667 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Hey Guys, It's new video Sunday and the the battle of the bolts has begun! In this episode I remove the brakes and prep them for @eric_shea . also pull the axles, press out the hubs and bearings and get the trailing arms ready for powder coating. Whew! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFLyAjA_XYM Very nice video. One comment, though, on your technique: You should always use the box end of the wrench whenever possible, especially when trying to break loose stuck bolts and nuts. The difference is that the open end of the wrench only makes contact on two points of the hex, whereas the box end makes contact at 6 points -- gives you three times the ability to apply torque before you round-off the corners. It's especially important with bleeder nipples, since they are small diameter and rather soft, very easy to round off or even completely strip the hex. Also, the axle nuts are torqued to a ridiculously high value. Very few people have an impact gun with enough ooomph to get those nuts loose. You may want to consider getting a 6-foot breaker bar and a 3/4" drive socket for the next time -- I have actually broken 1/2" drive breaker bars at the square drive because it's just not quite big enough to handle the load. |
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