Fuelpump rebuild: Bosch 0 580 463 009, Fuel pump - 1974 1.8 Options

[wonkipop]

think this is the right section of the website to put this in.
even though its a spanner job, the material is historic and possibly of esoteric industrial archeology interest. who knows?
1.

background.
i recently recommissioned my 74 1.8 after nearly 16 years of storage.
i paid for storing but i always knew i would. complete rebuild of fuel system.
we got the original fuel pump to come to life but it bled from every orifice.
flow rate was ok however and motor still worked fine - just a minor fire hazard.

2.
action.

to get the car up and running we took out the original 0 580 463 009 fuel pump and re-plumbed for a modern two port in line pump. car runs.
having done that, in some ways i felt the plumbing was a little compromised over the original given the pump needed to be repositioned to have a line in the back as well as out the front making the line out a pretty tight turn to get up into the engine bay. but it runs.

3.

delayed dream due to thoughts of it being a nightmare.
in the back of my mind was the idea of rebuilding the original fuel pump.
general consensus down here at the bottom of the world (aus) was don't bother, its a sealed unit and unserviceable.

4.

then. a young guy with a 1970 citroen DS21 IE inspired me. he had taken his similar bosch 3 port pump apart and rebuilt it proving its possible if you are determined enough.
i think the pump in the citroen was a 0 580 463 005, which the 009 replaced
not sure when the 009 came in, but its before the 010 (which is the completely different pump and fitted to the later 75 and 76 cars - amongst the first of the in line 2 port types). maybe the historians know exactly when 009 kicked in, i'm guessing it comes in with the L jetronic in 74 model year, but it could be earlier. externally a 005 is indistinguishable from a 009. i might have discovered the difference internally in what i have taken apart to date.

TAKING the 0 580 463 009 apart.

STEP 1.
undo the 4 screws securing the pump and outlet housing on top of the unit.
keep it all upright and vertical.
remove the top part of the housing.
remove the upper o-ring.
remove the metal pump vane and the five cylindrical magnets housed in it.
(bag them so you don't lose them - they seem to be weakly magnetic cylinders).
remove the vane housing.
remove the lower o-ring.

If your pump is only leaking from this upper housing its an easy fix.
just replace the two o-rings and put it all back together.

Don't need to post pics of this stuff its very simple to do.

the o-rings are 30x2mm i believe. could be 31x2mm. yet to confirm.
still to make the trip to the specialist o-ring shop here in melb aus.
i'll be looking to find the best fuel resistant o-rings i can get hold of.

suprisingly these o-rings were still in good shape in my pump and were not the source of the leaks. but i will be replacing them.

[Tdskip]

I have one that pumps but leaks from the top below the plastic fitting, think that can be saved?

Thanks for the topic/post.

[wonkipop]

I have one that pumps but leaks from the top below the plastic fitting, think that can be saved?

Thanks for the topic/post.

if it runs then it probably can be saved.
sounds like the electrical plug which means you will have to burrow all the way down.

worst thing you might find is a well worn commutator and brushes. if you know an auto electrician reconditioner who can rebuild the commutator (and rebuild it to a good level of quality) you should end up with a good pump. as found in the pump from the mercedes once the commutator wears right down then its going to probably spit a chunk off and jam the motor (result will be sudden failure).

the problem is you take the pump out of the car its off the road unless you put in another pump. the only pumps you can buy now are in-line pumps, so you will be repositioning the pump slightly and replumbing the fuel lines. the pressure relief line in these old pumps (returning fuel to the fuel return line back to the tank - its a line to a T-fitting) is not required in modern pumps with internal pressure relief. then if you put the old pump back in you will have to redo it all again back to original layout.

i'm doing this because potentially i have a back up pump with the SAAB unit.
with a spare pump it will be less frustrating to re-plumb back to original configuration. it won't be a hassle if the pump fails for any reason and i need to put the replacement in. just bolt up the spare and reconnect the fuel lines.

i guess my advice would be if you want to think about keeping on running the original pump you might want a spare one on the shelf. if not, just go to the modern inline pump.

i won't put these pumps back together until after the christmas/new year break.
when i do i'll post the result of the work and whether it has been a failure.
i think the challenge will be recrimping the motor housing back to the pump housing.