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Kerrys914 |
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;) ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,568 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Williamsburg, VA Member No.: 16 ![]() |
There is about 1/8"-1/4" of threads above the head?
Can I remove this myself with standard tools (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) |
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IronHillRestorations |
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I. I. R. C. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 6,831 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I would weld a nut on what is left of the stud. If it breaks off flush with the head, that's probably where you'd end up anyway. Usually the heat of welding the nut on will break things loose. I'd probably want to replace all the exhaust studs at this point. You don't want to have some break when you put on the new exhaust, and then end up in the same place you are right now, only with the engine in the car, blah blah, blah.
Do not try to drill out the broken off stud with a hand drill! If you think you've stepped in it with a broken stud, you'll be in deeper if you FUBAR the head. Generally speaking it isn't recommended to rebuild only one cylinder head. If for some reason the mounting surface of the head has to be machined in anyway, you've got to do all three head on that bank. The 911 heads all have to be the same deck height or the cam tower won't bolt up square, and the cam will end up in a bind. Unless you've got the tools and experience to do so, I wouldn't remove the cylinder heads. This isn't to say that you couldn't do it, but you want someone there with you that's had some experience. The flat six has more critical assembly points than the fours, and it is easy to make a mistake that could cost you your engine. Where did you get your engine? If the engine is "portable", I'd think you could find a machine shop that could tackle this for you. |
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