"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
worn |
Feb 24 2021, 10:40 AM
Post
#1
|
can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
See last post. Welding and rubber sealant removal coming to the end. Thanks.
Haven't been very active for a couple of years. Partly because the 911 has taken up my time. So I am finally getting around to rust repair on my '76. The floors have rusted through so I have been working on the layer cake that makes up the right side longitudinal, focused on the hell region. The rust has affected both the inner pieces as well as the outer ones, and it is concentrated where all of the pieces come together. I have cut away the pitted and perforated metal. My question is as follows. I am addressing the problem by restoring each piece to produce a longitudinal as it came from the factory. For example. In this case I made a piece to restore the tab of the forward inner layer of the outside long. Then I added a piece to restore the rear inner layer piece the overlaps: Then I have made a patch for the outer wheel house piece to produce the outer layer. The patches are butt welded to good metal on the original pieces and shaped to reproduce the originals. Here is the question. Is this really best practice? For example, instead of making a bunch of pieces that join together to match the original I could use a single sheet that replaces them all at once. With fewer butt welds and seams. My method so far has been heavily influenced by threads from people I admire here on the world. You folks make nice welds. |
SirAndy |
Feb 25 2021, 10:57 AM
Post
#2
|
Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,679 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
Here is the question. Is this really best practice? For example, instead of making a bunch of pieces that join together to match the original I could use a single sheet that replaces them all at once. With fewer butt welds and seams. My method so far has been heavily influenced by threads from people I admire here on the world. You folks make nice welds. Personally, i like to weld as little as possible. No matter how much care you take to prime the new metal, the welds will leave exposed spots that are starting points for new rust. RD has a lot of replacement metal for your needs: https://www.restoration-design.com/ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) |
Superhawk996 |
Feb 26 2021, 06:00 PM
Post
#3
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,903 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Personally, i like to weld as little as possible. No matter how much care you take to prime the new metal, the welds will leave exposed spots that are starting points for new rust. RD has a lot of replacement metal for your needs: https://www.restoration-design.com/ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) FWIW -- RD panels are Galvaneal. The Zinc that is annealed into the top surface of the panel sheet metal will actually serve as a sacrificial cathode for nearby sheet metal and welds. Not perfect, and protection diminishes with distance from the Galvaneal panel, but, the Zinc in Galvaneal goes a long way toward holding off surface corrosion at the weld sites. |
worn |
Feb 27 2021, 01:04 PM
Post
#4
|
can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Personally, i like to weld as little as possible. No matter how much care you take to prime the new metal, the welds will leave exposed spots that are starting points for new rust. RD has a lot of replacement metal for your needs: https://www.restoration-design.com/ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) FWIW -- RD panels are Galvaneal. The Zinc that is annealed into the top surface of the panel sheet metal will actually serve as a sacrificial cathode for nearby sheet metal and welds. Not perfect, and protection diminishes with distance from the Galvaneal panel, but, the Zinc in Galvaneal goes a long way toward holding off surface corrosion at the weld sites. I have several orders in from RD. One problem is that the rust generally is affecting ends of panels such that I would have to replace 90-95% good metal to get rid of the 5% that is really rotten. I think it was BBrock who suggested the Cu UPol primer. And it does seem to weld nicer than the Zn. I have sets of wire brushes welded to 3 foot quarter in rods to clean the old out of the longs. Cut where there are pits, use a rust converter to turn the rust to ferrite covered with vinyl sealler. That gets a coat of marine epoxy and that gets a coat of 3M cavity treatment wax. But between the layers there are places of clean metal plug welded to clean metal, and that is what is looking like copper. The shop is pretty comfortable: about 50 degrees F when it warms up, but I still have problems with fogging the welding helmet. And I have an extra reading glass lens to fog. So, have to route the warm air away: The wheel house sheet metal right behind the battery was perforated, and the RD pressing doesn't seem to reach that far up. Here is the beginning pretty crude repair, but I will be able to get it from the other side. You can also see the reinforcing piece that lies inside the inner long. That is covered with epoxy. The wax material from three M will be sprayed in as the last step to reduce fire. A bit better. The worst part is the slight furrow on either side of the weld in the HAZ. Any suggestions? It is a new to me Hobart 135. I also have a Lincoln I can use, and a TIG. |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 10th June 2024 - 03:45 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |