"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
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"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
worn |
Feb 24 2021, 10:40 AM
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#1
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
See last post. Welding and rubber sealant removal coming to the end. Thanks.
Haven't been very active for a couple of years. Partly because the 911 has taken up my time. So I am finally getting around to rust repair on my '76. The floors have rusted through so I have been working on the layer cake that makes up the right side longitudinal, focused on the hell region. The rust has affected both the inner pieces as well as the outer ones, and it is concentrated where all of the pieces come together. I have cut away the pitted and perforated metal. My question is as follows. I am addressing the problem by restoring each piece to produce a longitudinal as it came from the factory. For example. In this case I made a piece to restore the tab of the forward inner layer of the outside long. Then I added a piece to restore the rear inner layer piece the overlaps: Then I have made a patch for the outer wheel house piece to produce the outer layer. The patches are butt welded to good metal on the original pieces and shaped to reproduce the originals. Here is the question. Is this really best practice? For example, instead of making a bunch of pieces that join together to match the original I could use a single sheet that replaces them all at once. With fewer butt welds and seams. My method so far has been heavily influenced by threads from people I admire here on the world. You folks make nice welds. |
jaredmcginness |
Feb 28 2021, 07:45 AM
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... Group: Members Posts: 502 Joined: 12-June 19 From: Baltimore Member No.: 23,209 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Your repair is great! Nice work so far. Keep updating us.
Lots of great advice in here. My only advice, I covered this exact same repair. I used a few new panels (outer long, floors) the rest I made myself. It really went by much faster than I anticipated. I enjoyed it. |
worn |
Mar 4 2021, 11:29 AM
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#3
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Made some progress this week. Got the wheel house panel in completely. Am experimenting with new techniques to reduce undercutting in the surrounding metal.
The inner long has a heavy reinforcement section inside. Restoration designs makes it, but it rusted badly only along the lower flange where it flattens out to collect water and sulfuric acid and what ever else causes rust Here it is I fabricated a repair piece from 14 gauge steel because this piece was thicker than other body parts. Did my best to add the corrugations. This is all welding on my back covered with a welding blanket. Hardly enough room to get my helmet angled to see the weld. But persistence pays off. I did more welding after this but since the longitudinal provides an out layer I left some ugliness be rather than grind everything off. Then of course there are floors to deal with. |
worn |
Mar 4 2021, 11:50 AM
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#4
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
The floor carries many items for use on the new floor. I like the idea of reproducing the holes used during manufacture, and I need to pull out the plugs.
and make new holes for them In order to remember where everything goes I have to save the pieces for awhile. Never throw them out till you have finished the project. The upside down welding involved solid metal that has been hit with rust converter to deal with surface rust followed by epoxy primer. This is inside the longitudinal. The best I can do is scour it with a wire brush welded on the end of a long shaft and spun with a drill. It won't readily return to its evil oxidizing ways and I will make sure to cover the parts burned off in welding by spraying with a narrow tube. That is what it is. Which means that I am welding my patches onto metal that isn't quite clean. And of course, that isn't pleasant even if the results are OK. You get flares and spatter. I was covered by a welding blanket, but I didn't put a welding sleeve on my left hand and my elbow caught fire. How do I know? I saw smoke rising from the left. |
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