![]() |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
![]() |
Trekkor |
![]() ![]()
Post
#1
|
I do things... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
I'm repairing the battery tray and related hot spot. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)
I need your tech advice on the procedure. I want to first make paper templates and then fit the sheet metal. Maybe hang it with rivets or screws before the big weld off. Stock look is not important to me. Just needs to drain and support the new battery tray and pedestal. I will sand off the remaining surface rust before applying rust converting primer. I'm scratching the naval jelly approach. Also, please post pics of your repaired areas. Here's my project. Thanks, as usual! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/clap.gif) KT Attached image(s) ![]() |
![]() ![]() |
airsix |
![]()
Post
#2
|
I have bees in my epiglotis ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,196 Joined: 7-February 03 From: Kennewick Man (E. WA State) Member No.: 266 ![]() |
Let me elaborate a little on my 'beat to fit' comment. What I would do specifically is get some card stock (like standard paper manila folders) and cut templates out that fit the way you want them too. You'll be able to bend them to fit the curves and trim them up until you like the fit. Test each piece to see where you need to attach it first so that as you press it into place everything lines up correctly. You'll apply your sheet metal patches the same way. Then flatten the cardboard pieces back out and use them as paterns to cut your sheet metal pieces. Now when you start to work with your flat sheet metal patches you can hammer form them as you weld them in - alternately welding and hammering as you go. You should be able to form the pieces nicely into possition this way.
If this was a concourse show car I'd get AA or Restoration Design's repair pieces, or make accurate patches and butt-weld them. But to clean up a driver on a budget, or if building a autocross/track car I'd use the overlapped/seam-welded patch method. I would trust it to be stronger than butt-welded perfect-fit patches (at least if it was me doing the welding). I'd do the metal prep just like Geoff said. I'd also apply some POR-15 'Metal Ready' (like Ospho) before I sprayed the weld-through primer, but that's probably not necessary if you've done a good job of grinding all the scale away. -Ben M. |