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red914 |
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...i believe in coyotes and time as an abstract... ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 862 Joined: 8-February 04 From: poulsbo, washington Member No.: 1,641 ![]() |
so, what can be done about the rear brake proportioning valve? it seems most people replace it with a "t" fitting, but that doesn't seem to address the issue. it must be there for a reason. can it be rebuilt? can it be replaced? how can one tell if it is working properly? what is the best way to bleed the little beggar? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
i appreciate all the help and information. soon i'll be able to tackle the brake project, now that the holiday vortex is loosening its grip on my life. |
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campbellcj |
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I can't Re Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,635 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Agoura, CA Member No.: 21 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
There's a lot of good brake info in the archives. In a nutshell you DO NOT want a "tee" with stock brakes. If your calipers are working properly then the rears would lock-up well before the fronts. That is not fun.
Most cars with "tees" have significantly upgraded brakes but also have setups that are well-balanced enough to get away without an attenuation of pressure at either end. For instance I have SC "A" calipers and rotors up front and 914/4 front calipers in back, with Pagid race pads all around, and I use a tee with no problems. (FWIW I also have non-stock stuff just about everywhere else which also makes a difference in weight transfer and grip). Your best bet is probably a Tilton or Wilwood type of adjustable valve. You'll need to adapt the prop valve to our cars' somewhat unusual metric flare but the usual sources should be able to hook you up with the right bits. |
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