Oil leaks after rebuild, Dropping motor to track down oil leaks Options

[Wew]

Hi all,

Engine rebuild has not gone as smooth as I had hoped.

I am dropping the engine again to figure out the source of my leaks.

I have drips coming from a couple of the tube on the passenger side under the oil cooler.

Tough to tell if it's the cooler or the tubes.

Cylinder 3 is giving me the most concern.

It almost looks like one of the four cylinder studs is leaking oil.

I can't tell exactly as it could be the actual mating surface of the cylinder and the block.

Anyway I am dropping the motor to track these down.

Has anyone else come across oil leaking out of a stud or is this just the cylinder and engine mating surface leaking?

If it is how have any of you remedied this?

Is there a bullet proof sealant that others have used to stop this?

Attached is an image I borrowed online that shows the location of where I see oil coming from.

Thanks for sharing as always.

[Wew]

Hi all,

I am back at putting my engine back together. Thanks Mark Henry and Rich from 914 werke and all the others for being so helpful with advice and recommendations.
I purchased the oil pressure kit with the brake line adapter to avoid damaging the threaded opening in the case. Loctite thread sealer all the way around the threads throughout the extension and the pressure sender.
Fingers crossed.
I also purchased the oil cooler for the 914 2.0. Learn from my mistakes and do not buy an oil cooler from your local vw aircooled shop, although a close fit, it doesn't fit right and you have to do some grinding and macgyvering to make it fit right. A recipe for leaks, ask me how I know.
Also, when you have your local air cooled shop do your rocker balancing double check their work. I should have sucked it up and done it myself. Would have done a better job in hindsight. #3 exhaust was so loose that you could have stuck a 2x4 between it for the gap. Not impressed with their quality of work to say the least. Nothing was set at zero lash as I had requested.
Now I am moving on to other pieces for assembly and am having a heck of a time getting the SSI to line up with the exhaust studs. Three came out of the heads when originally loosening. I had to reset the and tighten them up. Now as a by product of that I cannot get the exhaust opening and the SSI exhaust to line up the way I would like.
The only thing I can think of is loosening the studs again then sliding the SSI's back over them and then tighten the studs prior to tightening the actual copper nut.

I also had a tough time getting the banana muffler to line up with the exhaust and had to use a strap to pull them a little closer together to line up with the muffler.
Even after cranking down on the exhaust and muffler bolts it still seemed like they did not meet flush even with the proper gaskets.

Interested to hear what others have done in these situations.

Thanks again and getting closer to another install and test.

[ClayPerrine]

I also had a tough time getting the banana muffler to line up with the exhaust and had to use a strap to pull them a little closer together to line up with the muffler.
Even after cranking down on the exhaust and muffler bolts it still seemed like they did not meet flush even with the proper gaskets.

From experience.. always loose assemble everything on the exhaust system before tightening up any of the nuts and bolts. That way everything moves around a bit before you lock it down. Then tighten up the ones on the muffler flanges before you tighten the ones on the engine. The last ones are the ones holding the boomerang (exhaust hanger) to the transmission.

Good luck!

Clay