2056 microsquirt, Its alive! Now I have to tune it |
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2056 microsquirt, Its alive! Now I have to tune it |
peteyd |
May 28 2015, 08:10 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 707 Joined: 27-March 08 From: Elora, Ontario, Canada Member No.: 8,858 Region Association: Canada |
I had my car on the road for only two summers until I wanted to get a more reliable engine. I was not too familiar with the microsquirt, or megasquirt system, but when Mark started to offer a kit I knew that it would be a great starting point. I also had followed the progress of McMarks, rwilner and Zachs conversions and figured they had done enough trail blazing that it would be a piece of cake.
I started to piece together my own little manuel of pictures and notes from other threads and came up with my own little DIY powerpoint. So hopefully this thread can benefit others and hopefully these guys dont mind that I am reposting some of their photos. I didnt just decide to buy the system on a whim though. It all started one night when I was driving home on the highway and I heard a pretty large bang. I had just replaced my oil pressure relief valve with the new tangerine product and thought my engine had just exploded! I pulled over and realized after digging around that my #3 spark plug blew out of the threads. I have a head temp sensor under the plug, so Im thinking that it wasnt turned in all the way and the pressure was too great for the threads to hold the plug. BTW the pressure relief valve is a great product That winter I pulled the engine and then the head and put a time-sert in #3 After bolting the heads back up, I noticed that my valve train geometry was off. So at that point I decided to measure and cut custom pushrods for the proper geometry. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE-TJxlE7Ck And since I had the engine out, and Chris had just come out with another great engine product, I figured what the Hell, and bought his SS pushrod tubes and installed them. At this point I had been thinking about McMarks EFI kit seriously, and decided to pull the trigger. I ordered the kit from Mark @ Original Customs. I patiently waited and my kit finally came! Im using the stock 2L plenums and throttle body. Here is what came in the kit. (photos from Zach) I got the same stuff. |
peteyd |
May 4 2018, 12:31 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 707 Joined: 27-March 08 From: Elora, Ontario, Canada Member No.: 8,858 Region Association: Canada |
I have finally got my car running and driving!
It all started last summer. I dropped my car off at McMarks shop (Original Customs) so he could work out the problems I was having. Long story short, is that his supplier sent him the incorrect injectors. So after that was figured out, the car was running in no time. While it was there, Mark tidied up some loose ends that were bothering me. Once I got it home in the fall, I was able to take it out a few times and continue to tune it. But, the last time I was out I blew the alt belt and had to get a tow home from my wife. The car sat in my garage most of the winter untouched until I started tinkering again this spring. At that point I had an aftermarket alt on the engine because I was having trouble getting my original alt to excite and charge. I bought about 6 belts trying to get one to fit perfect but I just didn't have enough adjustment to get the belt tight. I burnt through another belt, and at that point I decided to put back my original alt. At this point I had learned that my wiring harness was missing a diode behind the fuel gauge which was causing my original alt not to excite in the first place. So back with the original, and now that problem is sorted the belt is good, and alt is charging. I have since installed an idle control valve as well. I wired the ICV as per the microsquirt wiring diagram(pin #7). Also take note, that this is a 3 wire valve and therefore I needed a 50 watt, 40ohm resistor. I then machined an aluminum block, countersunk the bolt holes, recessed a rubber oring, tapped 3/8 NPT and added a barbed hose fitting. Here is my resistor mounted on a brass plate. I then mounted my ICV to a bracket I fabbed up. Tapped some holes into my fan shroud and mounted it. |
913B |
Aug 6 2021, 11:17 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 847 Joined: 25-April 05 From: South Bay/SoCal Member No.: 3,983 Region Association: None |
I have finally got my car running and driving! It all started last summer. I dropped my car off at McMarks shop (Original Customs) so he could work out the problems I was having. Long story short, is that his supplier sent him the incorrect injectors. So after that was figured out, the car was running in no time. While it was there, Mark tidied up some loose ends that were bothering me. Once I got it home in the fall, I was able to take it out a few times and continue to tune it. But, the last time I was out I blew the alt belt and had to get a tow home from my wife. The car sat in my garage most of the winter untouched until I started tinkering again this spring. At that point I had an aftermarket alt on the engine because I was having trouble getting my original alt to excite and charge. I bought about 6 belts trying to get one to fit perfect but I just didn't have enough adjustment to get the belt tight. I burnt through another belt, and at that point I decided to put back my original alt. At this point I had learned that my wiring harness was missing a diode behind the fuel gauge which was causing my original alt not to excite in the first place. So back with the original, and now that problem is sorted the belt is good, and alt is charging. I have since installed an idle control valve as well. I wired the ICV as per the microsquirt wiring diagram(pin #7). Also take note, that this is a 3 wire valve and therefore I needed a 50 watt, 40ohm resistor. I then machined an aluminum block, countersunk the bolt holes, recessed a rubber oring, tapped 3/8 NPT and added a barbed hose fitting. Here is my resistor mounted on a brass plate. I then mounted my ICV to a bracket I fabbed up. Tapped some holes into my fan shroud and mounted it. @peteyd I am going down the MS route and just purchased the resistor in your post. I have this IAC, it's some generic VW piece I picked up on eBay. I think I need the resistor too ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Is mounting that resistor on a heat sink or brass plate needed in hindsight? Thanks in advance. |
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