Big 914 that will not idle, Idle Issue Options

[joeannwh8]

I have a 72 914 that I have been working on forever, started a rebuild 15 years ago. A local machinist help me out and somehow the engine that I thought was a little bigger then 2.1L, I now calculate the size at 2366 cc (103mm x 71mm)! It has an electronic vacuum advance distributor and Solex H32/34 PD513 carbs, compression is 150 psi plus or minus 2 psi all around. Engine starts instantly warm or cold, rev's sluggishly but will quickly get to 6000 rpm easily. The issue is it will not idle below 2200 rpm.

What have I missed?

[joeannwh8]

Okay thanks to everyone that has gotten me this far! The car runs now and stops now!
The running issue was to small carbs and a flaky ignition unit, the no stoppy issue was the rear brake proportional valve set to low (operator error)
The issue now is the oil over heats very quickly, 20 minutes driving around town (Santa Clarita CA) on an 80 degree day, 10 minutes on a 100 degree day.
The motor is a type 4, 2.3L, 10.5:1 compression, mild cam, weber 44 carbs (set-up by AirCooled.net), somewhere a long the way, (I started working on this motor in 2003), I got talked into a 30mm oil pump (I think this is the issue). My plugs look like hot coco and my heads are running 240, top of engine case 250, bottom of engine case 240, oil temperature on VDO gauge 275; all temps are deg F and recorded with a laser thermometer. I ran 20w-50, switched to 5w-30 and just tried 0w-20, all with similar results cold oil pressure approaching 70 psi @2800 rpm, 50 psi @ 800 rpm, as the oil temp goes up, on the way to 275, the oil pressure starts dropping (dah!) @ idle looks like 5-6 psi @ 2800 rpm 20-40 psi.
Am I just over whelming the stock relief system and heating the oil by running it over the reliefs? I experienced this in a very different hydraulic system many years ago.

Do I replace the pump or is there a way to lower the pressure (oil volume) with out running the oil over the relief valves???

Do I have to find a stock pump, I think they are 24 mm or will a 26 mm unit lower the volume enough to get my temp's under control.

[Shivers]

Okay thanks to everyone that has gotten me this far! The car runs now and stops now!
The running issue was to small carbs and a flaky ignition unit, the no stoppy issue was the rear brake proportional valve set to low (operator error)
The issue now is the oil over heats very quickly, 20 minutes driving around town (Santa Clarita CA) on an 80 degree day, 10 minutes on a 100 degree day.
The motor is a type 4, 2.3L, 10.5:1 compression, mild cam, weber 44 carbs (set-up by AirCooled.net), somewhere a long the way, (I started working on this motor in 2003), I got talked into a 30mm oil pump (I think this is the issue). My plugs look like hot coco and my heads are running 240, top of engine case 250, bottom of engine case 240, oil temperature on VDO gauge 275; all temps are deg F and recorded with a laser thermometer. I ran 20w-50, switched to 5w-30 and just tried 0w-20, all with similar results cold oil pressure approaching 70 psi @2800 rpm, 50 psi @ 800 rpm, as the oil temp goes up, on the way to 275, the oil pressure starts dropping (dah!) @ idle looks like 5-6 psi @ 2800 rpm 20-40 psi.
Am I just over whelming the stock relief system and heating the oil by running it over the reliefs? I experienced this in a very different hydraulic system many years ago.

Do I replace the pump or is there a way to lower the pressure (oil volume) with out running the oil over the relief valves???

Do I have to find a stock pump, I think they are 24 mm or will a 26 mm unit lower the volume enough to get my temp's under control.

I just caught this. 10.5:1 is going to create more heat than stock compression, especially an air-cooled. My personal opinion, if you are running in a warm to hot environment, I'd be looking at volume of oil, running to a front mounted oil cooler and a fan to a t-stat.

[BeatNavy]

Okay thanks to everyone that has gotten me this far! The car runs now and stops now!
The running issue was to small carbs and a flaky ignition unit, the no stoppy issue was the rear brake proportional valve set to low (operator error)
The issue now is the oil over heats very quickly, 20 minutes driving around town (Santa Clarita CA) on an 80 degree day, 10 minutes on a 100 degree day.
The motor is a type 4, 2.3L, 10.5:1 compression, mild cam, weber 44 carbs (set-up by AirCooled.net), somewhere a long the way, (I started working on this motor in 2003), I got talked into a 30mm oil pump (I think this is the issue). My plugs look like hot coco and my heads are running 240, top of engine case 250, bottom of engine case 240, oil temperature on VDO gauge 275; all temps are deg F and recorded with a laser thermometer. I ran 20w-50, switched to 5w-30 and just tried 0w-20, all with similar results cold oil pressure approaching 70 psi @2800 rpm, 50 psi @ 800 rpm, as the oil temp goes up, on the way to 275, the oil pressure starts dropping (dah!) @ idle looks like 5-6 psi @ 2800 rpm 20-40 psi.
Am I just over whelming the stock relief system and heating the oil by running it over the reliefs? I experienced this in a very different hydraulic system many years ago.

Do I replace the pump or is there a way to lower the pressure (oil volume) with out running the oil over the relief valves???

Do I have to find a stock pump, I think they are 24 mm or will a 26 mm unit lower the volume enough to get my temp's under control.

I just caught this. 10.5:1 is going to create more heat than stock compression, especially an air-cooled. My personal opinion, if you are running in a warm to hot environment, I'd be looking at volume of oil, running to a front mounted oil cooler and a fan to a t-stat.

I think that's a fair point. I'm running a 2.3 at about 9:1, and I think I'm on the edge of what a rear mounted cooler can accomplish and sustain, at least on hot days and when I'm not moving. At some point in the mod process I think you do have to bite the bullet and plumb something up front.