Doctor GoQuik, calling Doctor GoQuik, Questions from the bleachers Options

[Shivers]

Some race, some wish they could. I can't afford it so I get my thrills where I can. I've been driving this car a long time. I was lucky to find club, the world and wouldn't want to forget NARP. So I was able to add anti rolls, 140 lbs in the rear, 21 mm torsions, oh you know, all that Weltmeister stuff from the turn of the century. But like some, I also bought the KYB's and settled. Well thanks to a few of you, I now have bilstein b6 hd's for the front and just got these for the back. Which brings up the first question. I'm raising the front spindles 40mm (1.5"), I'd like to get the snap ring close on the rears. Can you guys get me close?



Second thing, I live in the desert, so even in the winter it can be hot in the day time. So I'm adding a front oil cooler. I've seen it exhausted out the hood (BOLD), from under the car and into the wheel wells. Since the brakes get so hot, I was thinking of sending that air towards them. Can you guys give me, from practical experience if this path is good or not. The brakes are 911 T M's w/ vented rotors in the rear, fronts are wilwood superlites vented rotors. Brake heat should not be a problem around town, but I like to play on mountain roads, or any twisty and I'd really like to join some of you in some friendly autocross. As far as top speed, shoot my car was not set up to go fast so under the car exhaust should not be an issue either. I've seen the wheel well exits on 911's. To me your opinions are gold, and appreciated. Thank you

[stownsen914]

Re: cooling, you'll get opinions all over the map on this. I've owned one racecar that exhausted the air into wheel wells and another with it out the bottom (mostly anyway). Both seemed to work fine. A few details that seem to be important from my experimentation/experience:
- The intake can be anywhere from 1/3 to the full size of the cooler, but no larger
- Ducting to the cooler is critical. If you give the air anywhere else to go besides through the cooler, it'll do that. The cooler is restrictive to air passage. So you want to make your ducting fit closely and seal the gaps - foam tape like you put on A/C ducting, windows, etc. like you get at Home Depot works well to fill gaps. Foil tape can work too. (The ducting away from the cooler is a little less critical, but makes for a nicer installation and look.)
- If you exhaust under the car, put a downward facing lip on the leading edge to help create low air pressure to draw air out. A front spoiler should serve this purpose too, if your car has one.
- The air exhaust should be larger than the cooler. Many say 1.5 times the face of the cooler, so I usually aim for that.
- Some like to use fans to move the air. If you plan to be stuck in traffic, it's not a bad idea. If you do your ducting right, in my opinion moving free air is better than a fan once the car is rolling.
- Exhausting out the hood is great, but you have to cut the body and most don't want to do that. My cars have run 190-200 degrees oil temp on track ducting in the wheel wells and under the car (granted I run big coolers).