Doctor GoQuik, calling Doctor GoQuik, Questions from the bleachers Options

[Shivers]

Some race, some wish they could. I can't afford it so I get my thrills where I can. I've been driving this car a long time. I was lucky to find club, the world and wouldn't want to forget NARP. So I was able to add anti rolls, 140 lbs in the rear, 21 mm torsions, oh you know, all that Weltmeister stuff from the turn of the century. But like some, I also bought the KYB's and settled. Well thanks to a few of you, I now have bilstein b6 hd's for the front and just got these for the back. Which brings up the first question. I'm raising the front spindles 40mm (1.5"), I'd like to get the snap ring close on the rears. Can you guys get me close?



Second thing, I live in the desert, so even in the winter it can be hot in the day time. So I'm adding a front oil cooler. I've seen it exhausted out the hood (BOLD), from under the car and into the wheel wells. Since the brakes get so hot, I was thinking of sending that air towards them. Can you guys give me, from practical experience if this path is good or not. The brakes are 911 T M's w/ vented rotors in the rear, fronts are wilwood superlites vented rotors. Brake heat should not be a problem around town, but I like to play on mountain roads, or any twisty and I'd really like to join some of you in some friendly autocross. As far as top speed, shoot my car was not set up to go fast so under the car exhaust should not be an issue either. I've seen the wheel well exits on 911's. To me your opinions are gold, and appreciated. Thank you

[infraredcalvin]

Assuming you have a narrow body car, but if I recall correctly, (please somebody correct me if I’m wrong) raising the front spindles more than 20 mm will have the base hitting the inside of a 15” rim (911 Fuchs). Even raising them 20 is excessive for 15” wheels and a good 50 series tire (Bridgestone re71). You’ve got to be really low to take advantage of raising 40mm, my club (POC) requires min of 4” clearance, which is fine with stock height spindles. Also 21 torsions in the front is fairly stiff, 145 in the rear might be too soft, should be much closer to 200 in the rear - I have this setup in my 4 cyl track car.

I’d splurge for a set of coil over sleeves for the rear, sell your 145s and pick up some 175 springs (or higher). BTW I may have some sleeves in the parts bin I’ll donate to the cause for cost of shipping…

As far as brake pads, go with a good performance street compound, like porterfield r4s, I used this for my track days. The 914 is light and a momentum car, I don’t use my brakes often enough to overheat them, in fact like mentioned above, it’s hard to keep heat in them, so you want something that works well cold, or with minimal warmup. You shouldn’t need cooling unless you’re throwing big power at the wheels.

I’m just throwing a bunch of info out here, but I’d suggest planning out your system with a bit more research, shoot post more info here, but seems you may throwing good money away on unnecessary items.

[Shivers]

Assuming you have a narrow body car, but if I recall correctly, (please somebody correct me if I’m wrong) raising the front spindles more than 20 mm will have the base hitting the inside of a 15” rim (911 Fuchs). Even raising them 20 is excessive for 15” wheels and a good 50 series tire (Bridgestone re71). You’ve got to be really low to take advantage of raising 40mm, my club (POC) requires min of 4” clearance, which is fine with stock height spindles. Also 21 torsions in the front is fairly stiff, 145 in the rear might be too soft, should be much closer to 200 in the rear - I have this setup in my 4 cyl track car.

I’d splurge for a set of coil over sleeves for the rear, sell your 145s and pick up some 175 springs (or higher). BTW I may have some sleeves in the parts bin I’ll donate to the cause for cost of shipping…

As far as brake pads, go with a good performance street compound, like porterfield r4s, I used this for my track days. The 914 is light and a momentum car, I don’t use my brakes often enough to overheat them, in fact like mentioned above, it’s hard to keep heat in them, so you want something that works well cold, or with minimal warmup. You shouldn’t need cooling unless you’re throwing big power at the wheels.

I’m just throwing a bunch of info out here, but I’d suggest planning out your system with a bit more research, shoot post more info here, but seems you may throwing good money away on unnecessary items.

@infraredcalvin
Thank you for the response and the kind offer. This is a budget build, so every bit helps.
I've already been running the suspension parts since 95'. Thought I was happy. I'll keep an eye out for some 180's springs. Brakes I got 10 years ago, struts and coil overs are new to me, I'm doing the spindle work at home. I need to buy a cooler, an oil pump and make up some lines, I've already modified the bumper and valance for the cooler. I am going to flare this car and I will be buying some used 17" rims. 205's are nice, but 225's will be a dream. I went out and looked, and from a stock height, it looks like I'll have about 4.5" clearance with the 40mm at the engine support bar. Yes it is a four cylinder. Thanks dude, this is what I need, this is her last build for me.