914 V8 Resurrection, Fuel Tank / Carb questions Options

[MM1]

Dear 914 Guru’s,

I recently picked up the (carbureted) red 1974 914-V8 project that was sold here on the world. I’m hoping the brain trust can guide me in getting started . . .

The tank and sending unit are all crusty - I’d like to avoid the tank cleaning/re-lining nightmares I’ve gone through before and just get a new tank. I can pick up a Dansk 1973 and earlier tank along with a URO fuel level sending unit for around $360(shipped). Will these install (without mods) and work with the straps/wiring/gauges of a 1974? (There’s no expansion tank/charcoal canister in the car.)Any opinions on these 2 parts/brands (vs Dansk sending unit)?

Is it worth it to spend quite a bit more ($525+ at Pelican) for the Dansk 1974-up tank and a Dansk fuel level sending unit (website said it only works with 100L tank . . .is there a capacity difference between gen 1 and gen 2 tanks?)?

Carburetor: it’s a Weber 4-barrel- I haven’t found any numbers yet and I have no idea what CFM it is. I didn’t even know Weber made a four barrel and it’s difficult to find much info on the Internet . . . I thought I read it’s a Carter AFB copy - I cannot confirm that though. They are still sold for marine applications.

Any thoughts? The car sat for many years and the PO who had it about six weeks said he cleaned the jets out but didn’t rebuild the carb. I got it to start a few times and after it warmed up it seemed to fuel correctly but ran out of fuel or got clogged up after a few minutes of running ( at which point I opened up the tank to see that it was quite crusty). Should I rebuild this carb ? Or would it be smarter to buy a new carb ?( it’s a Chevrolet 283c.i. V8 with an Edelbrock Performer intake and rams horn exhaust manifolds and an electric fuel pump in the engine bay. I have no idea if it is a stock motor or not- the only thing I could find in the records is that one shop thought it was from 1968.)

If some of you suggest a new carb instead of rebuilding the Weber what CFM and brand would you go with?

Your advice, as always, deeply appreciated and priceless. . . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[Chris914n6]

So the tank crust is likely not as bad as you think.

A chemical reaction happens between the ethanol in our E10 gas and the decades of varnish from the pure gas coating the tank walls that creates a fine powder. The powder will wash out with soap & water. But, this fine powder went thru the system possibly past the filter. So the filter, hoses, pump, and carb (injectors) will have this crap clogging all the holes. You will need to do a good cleaning of the whole system.

The E10, if it sits unmixed for a year or even less will rust out most metal parts, soften rubber seals & such, and cause white plastic hoses to dry out and break. It's a safe bet that a car that hasn't been driven within a year will need a new pump assm because the feed hose and strainer has crumbled.

Make sure the new rubber hose is rated for ethanol, 30r14 or better.

Look into a FiTech. Basically self-learning TBI with o2 that will give you all the driveability of modern FI. There is no way to keep the E10 from separating in the bowl so you will have starting/running problems if the car sits a month.
I have to run the pump a minute every weekend to keep it from damaging the system again. I didn't know this so had to replace the hoses under the tank a year later because the ethanol ate the rubber and was leaking. The heat might quicken the separation but data on the negatives of E10 are hard to find.

Slow work day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)