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Lockwodo |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 214 Joined: 23-December 21 From: Santa Cruz, Californnia Member No.: 26,193 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
Hi all. As I work through the maintenance issues on the '74 2.0 I bought recently, I noticed that the cooling flaps are wide open (as they would be when engine is warmed up) all the time. Since this is the default position when a thermostat fails, I'll be checking the thermostat and wire/pulley mechanism. But just wondering what priority resolving this should have? It's not like I don't have plenty of other things to take care of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
The car starts from cold, idles and runs well. I live in an area where it's unlikely I'll be starting and driving the car in temperatures below 60 degrees F. What do you think? |
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emerygt350 |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,884 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
Kind of. Idle in djet is a little complicated. You have a cht sensor telling the computer to richen the mix when cold, you have the AAR letting in a bunch of air to raise the idle when cold, and you have the idle screw and computer POT (I think 74 has it) that allows you to fine tune idle speed and richness when hot. None of these systems communicate with each other so all have to work like clockwork. If one isn't doing it's job, none of the others know about it or compensate.
That said, that is all there is as far as idle. As long as you don't have vacuum leaks, it isn't too hard to work your way through each system. The MPS can always be a wild card and the throttle switch does tell the computer when the throttle is in the idle position but those two normally don't cause idle issues. Oh, and you have a distributor with a retard that kicks in at idle. That can cause issues when hooked up incorrectly or the advance/retard plate gets gummed up. |
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