Cooling flap system on a '74 2.0 stuck open Options

[Lockwodo]

Hi all. As I work through the maintenance issues on the '74 2.0 I bought recently, I noticed that the cooling flaps are wide open (as they would be when engine is warmed up) all the time. Since this is the default position when a thermostat fails, I'll be checking the thermostat and wire/pulley mechanism. But just wondering what priority resolving this should have? It's not like I don't have plenty of other things to take care of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

The car starts from cold, idles and runs well. I live in an area where it's unlikely I'll be starting and driving the car in temperatures below 60 degrees F. What do you think?

[GregAmy]

If it helps for confidence in the gauge...I am running a separate calibrated oil temp sensor in the return line from my oil cooler (rear mounted Tangerine cooler) which dumps directly back into the sump. The sensor feeds into my Microsquirt where I can use a tablet to display temps (among other engine parameters) if desired.

The temperature I'm reading there directly correlates, to within single-digits degrees, to the bottom left illustration in post #14 (1973 gauge with 150C sender)*.

That illustration also works with the oil temp gauge in the left combo (which is what I have). I've found that when I'm showing around 220F on the MS then I'm right at halfway between the left hashmark and the left side of the wide red graphic. That's my baseline sweet spot fromw which to judge too hot/cold*

GA

*To explain, I removed my console as redundant (and sometimes misleading) info, plus I wanted the leg room. However I was able to compare MS to the center console before doing so; I installed the fuel/combo oil temp to use as a running guideline, since I don't run the tablet often.

**I have the MS switching on the cooler fan at 220 and off at 190...maybe I should bump that up a tad; though, on summer days it stays toward the high side anyway, won't come down to 190 unless I'm idling.