"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
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"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
worn |
Feb 24 2021, 10:40 AM
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#1
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
See last post. Welding and rubber sealant removal coming to the end. Thanks.
Haven't been very active for a couple of years. Partly because the 911 has taken up my time. So I am finally getting around to rust repair on my '76. The floors have rusted through so I have been working on the layer cake that makes up the right side longitudinal, focused on the hell region. The rust has affected both the inner pieces as well as the outer ones, and it is concentrated where all of the pieces come together. I have cut away the pitted and perforated metal. My question is as follows. I am addressing the problem by restoring each piece to produce a longitudinal as it came from the factory. For example. In this case I made a piece to restore the tab of the forward inner layer of the outside long. Then I added a piece to restore the rear inner layer piece the overlaps: Then I have made a patch for the outer wheel house piece to produce the outer layer. The patches are butt welded to good metal on the original pieces and shaped to reproduce the originals. Here is the question. Is this really best practice? For example, instead of making a bunch of pieces that join together to match the original I could use a single sheet that replaces them all at once. With fewer butt welds and seams. My method so far has been heavily influenced by threads from people I admire here on the world. You folks make nice welds. |
Dion |
May 24 2022, 07:39 AM
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#2
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RN Group: Members Posts: 2,767 Joined: 16-September 04 From: Audubon,PA Member No.: 2,766 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Wow, way to go Warren. That was a task. Well done.
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worn |
May 25 2022, 10:58 AM
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#3
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Kept hitting my head while backing out of the engine bay. My solution.
I finished up the rear with a couple patches where metal was in layers surrounded by failed sealant. My favorite was this one, which spans two pressings - the rear fender overlaps the piece that covers the rear of the trunk. The two pieces were made separately and plug welded together before welding to the car. I flattened some of the left overs from the trunk floor piece and then reshaped. The seam is crooked, but I am not going to fix it. |
worn |
May 25 2022, 11:04 AM
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#4
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Another hole found. I had to buy the B-pillar pressings twice because I originally thought the rust didn't go all of the way to the top and fixed only the bottom. Had to carefully try to remove the plug welds, which is harder than drilling out spot welds.
This shows the new excavation with earlier fix still present. |
worn |
May 25 2022, 11:17 AM
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#5
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
You can buy the B-pillar, but not the piece of the upper inner wheel housing. This goes from the engine bay all of the way through into the cabin. Again I hadn't bought my galvaneal sheet, so I flattened out a piece of trunk scrap.
You can buy the tube that lets air move in and out of the cabin, but by the time I was done I had carved most of it away. The piece that holds the tube also holds the door latch plate. You can buy the piece that holds the door latch along with the nut plate. But, you can't buy the little box that houses the nut plate. I have seen some cars where the factory just used a strapp across the middle of the nut plate. This is a '76 and the box and nut plate were liberally covered in sealer...thus the need for repair (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I used silver bearing brazing rod to attach the tube, but epoxy wold probably be just as good. |
worn |
May 25 2022, 11:26 AM
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#6
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Into the big hole.
Not shown is the welding the patch inside where it meets that inner fender piece. |
worn |
May 25 2022, 11:34 AM
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#7
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Why should the driver's side be any different?
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worn |
May 26 2022, 09:47 AM
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#8
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
The sail rusted where failed sealer met overlapping metal and rain and road spray. Same on both sides. Patched.
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worn |
May 26 2022, 09:52 AM
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#9
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Got most of the grime out of the front wheel wells, along with the sealer. The rubber sealer fears fire and a propane torch helps. With suitable caution.
At the bow I will be replacing the trunk floor to get rid of the former AC hack. And under the turn signals rust again. Not sure, but this may be the last of the wwelding. Or not. Left outside. inside Right side. |
worn |
Jun 2 2022, 06:45 PM
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#10
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I still have some welding to do up in the bow, but summer is here and so is humid air. I have to protect bare metal. I have two questions.
1 I love PPG DP40. I will be putting it on and then working with some small amount of body filler. Then another layer of epoxy. There are places where rust lurks untouchable. Between layers of metal, or in isolated pits. I don’t want to make the good metal into thin foil just to sand out a couple of pits. But, what to do? I have three products that use acids to turn the ferric iron to black ferrous form. This is more stable. I can use them and cover with epoxy. Or, I can just trap the rust away from water and o two with the primer. For those who use epoxy primer, what is your practice? Number the two. I was thinking of covering the wheel wells and underside with Raptor bed liner. Ever notice how antagonistic the names for truck products are? Seems like a good idea, but I saw someone post saying that this is used to hide sins of the DAPO, me in this case. Big deal? Anything better? Thanks! |
76-914 |
Jun 2 2022, 08:53 PM
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#11
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,509 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
I still have some welding to do up in the bow, but summer is here and so is humid air. I have to protect bare metal. I have two questions. 1 I love PPG DP40. I will be putting it on and then working with some small amount of body filler. Then another layer of epoxy. There are places where rust lurks untouchable. Between layers of metal, or in isolated pits. I don’t want to make the good metal into thin foil just to sand out a couple of pits. But, what to do? I have three products that use acids to turn the ferric iron to black ferrous form. This is more stable. I can use them and cover with epoxy. Or, I can just trap the rust away from water and o two with the primer. For those who use epoxy primer, what is your practice? Number the two. I was thinking of covering the wheel wells and underside with Raptor bed liner. Ever notice how antagonistic the names for truck products are? Seems like a good idea, but I saw someone post saying that this is used to hide sins of the DAPO, me in this case. Big deal? Anything better? Thanks! Hey Warren, 1st good work my man; 2nd, If your not in a hurry to spray those wheel wells I have a gallon of bed liner I can give you at the RRC but you'd need to source a pint of activator. I traded a flux core unit to a friend a few years back for 2 gallons of bed liner and one pint of activator. It's just been sitting around so LMK if you want it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
worn |
Jun 3 2022, 08:16 AM
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#12
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I still have some welding to do up in the bow, but summer is here and so is humid air. I have to protect bare metal. I have two questions. 1 I love PPG DP40. I will be putting it on and then working with some small amount of body filler. Then another layer of epoxy. There are places where rust lurks untouchable. Between layers of metal, or in isolated pits. I don’t want to make the good metal into thin foil just to sand out a couple of pits. But, what to do? I have three products that use acids to turn the ferric iron to black ferrous form. This is more stable. I can use them and cover with epoxy. Or, I can just trap the rust away from water and o two with the primer. For those who use epoxy primer, what is your practice? Number the two. I was thinking of covering the wheel wells and underside with Raptor bed liner. Ever notice how antagonistic the names for truck products are? Seems like a good idea, but I saw someone post saying that this is used to hide sins of the DAPO, me in this case. Big deal? Anything better? Thanks! Hey Warren, 1st good work my man; 2nd, If your not in a hurry to spray those wheel wells I have a gallon of bed liner I can give you at the RRC but you'd need to source a pint of activator. I traded a flux core unit to a friend a few years back for 2 gallons of bed liner and one pint of activator. It's just been sitting around so LMK if you want it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Thank you! A gallon? What color? I have to consider if I may. I am almost at the point where after two years of very slow cleaning and patching the project might actually move along. But I have to pull the plug on it for awhile to get ready for the trip. Any advice beyond that? |
76-914 |
Jun 4 2022, 08:01 PM
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#13
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,509 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
I still have some welding to do up in the bow, but summer is here and so is humid air. I have to protect bare metal. I have two questions. 1 I love PPG DP40. I will be putting it on and then working with some small amount of body filler. Then another layer of epoxy. There are places where rust lurks untouchable. Between layers of metal, or in isolated pits. I don’t want to make the good metal into thin foil just to sand out a couple of pits. But, what to do? I have three products that use acids to turn the ferric iron to black ferrous form. This is more stable. I can use them and cover with epoxy. Or, I can just trap the rust away from water and o two with the primer. For those who use epoxy primer, what is your practice? Number the two. I was thinking of covering the wheel wells and underside with Raptor bed liner. Ever notice how antagonistic the names for truck products are? Seems like a good idea, but I saw someone post saying that this is used to hide sins of the DAPO, me in this case. Big deal? Anything better? Thanks! Hey Warren, 1st good work my man; 2nd, If your not in a hurry to spray those wheel wells I have a gallon of bed liner I can give you at the RRC but you'd need to source a pint of activator. I traded a flux core unit to a friend a few years back for 2 gallons of bed liner and one pint of activator. It's just been sitting around so LMK if you want it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Thank you! A gallon? What color? I have to consider if I may. I am almost at the point where after two years of very slow cleaning and patching the project might actually move along. But I have to pull the plug on it for awhile to get ready for the trip. Any advice beyond that? It's black Warren. I used a gallon when I converted to water cooled. Shot it everywhere water might get if I developed a leak. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
worn |
Jun 25 2022, 10:09 AM
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#14
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,164 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Throughout this project I have found two tools really helpful
The first is a tube with a clutch cable piece sticking out. It looks like this and gets into places like this I use the piece of copper pipe as a bearing to guide and push the brush along. The number of holes like this is amazing. That is to say there are a lot of them. Another tool I am fast wearing out is this from Milwaukee. I am not touting the brand but they are the only ones selling something like this. Far more torque than my (cheap) air grinders. I have a dozen air die grinders so that I can choose a bit or sanding disc quickly by just grabbing a different die grinder. The battery powered tools are a bit too pricey for that but Roloc type discs help. You need a lot of batteries if you want to keep at it steady, and the chip will tell you no when the tool heats up. |
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