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ndfrigi |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,965 Joined: 21-August 11 From: Orange County Member No.: 13,474 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Hello Teeners! Is there anyone can share any pictures how they do a return fuel line especially on the carb side?
Since I will be replacing my fuel lines to SS and removing my fuel tank to clean, much as well prep everything with return line. I have Weber 36 Idf with 32vent Thank you! ![]() ![]() |
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9146C |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 228 Joined: 14-September 19 From: US Member No.: 23,460 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I just went through an exercise on my 2.7L six (with dual Webers). Yes, some of my issues were self induced. Some of the issue is trying to introduce non-OEM parts to make fit for a custom application.
Some of this can be considered a Public Service Announcement on what not to do (previously covered in a recent thread). In theory, I believe that a recirc coming from a pressure regulator (return to the fuel tank) and close to the carbs, with a tee to feed both carbs would be the best solution to maintain constant pressure and the added benefits to theoretical fuel temp/fuel pump longevity. I wound up trying three different electric fuel pumps (no recirc) while I was learning what would work for me. The first was a low pressure, low flow (Delphi) that fed into an Aeromotive 13222 regulator. The regulator was located on the rear firewall close to the carbs. The guage at the regulator indicated a constant supply pressure of a little less than 3 psi (after tuning). During sustained higher RPM loads (freeway driving), the car did experience what I felt was slight fuel starvation. Obviously, my first pump was undersized for flow. I had already eliminated the recirc line from the tunnel/fuel tank. I still had the parts to return to that option, but, sought a non-recirc solution. I had also initially constrained myself to trying to find a fuel pump that would fit under the steering rack...I wanted to keep any potential fuel leak out of the car. That decision obviously limited my fuel pump choices. My percieved choices of fuel pump were also limited as I wanted to maintain a 3/8"/10 mm fuel supply system from the tank through to the rear. I upgraded my initial Delphi pump to another (what was advertised) as a low pressure, higher volume (Walbro) inline electric pump. The second pump worked for me for about 8-9 months with the same, non-recirc, pressure regulated set-up. One day (just within the last few weeks), the (secondary) plastic fuel filter I had installed ahead of the regulator ruptured...I knew that the newest pump was pushing about 12 psi to the regulator. Never expected the fuel filter to fail as it did. I got lucky! No resultant fire as I was there at the time and saw the massive fuel "lake" forming under my car at the time of failure. I retrofitted my forward fuel pump location (inside the frunk) to accommodate the Carter rotary vane pump. This pump is designed to be used with or without a recirc and is advertised for a maximum, internally regulated 4 psi. The issue I found with the Carter is that it would no longer work with my Aeromotive 13222 regulator...could never achieve more than about 2 psi (and it would drop off to almost nothing under load). Bypassing the regulator, the Carter pump was pushing close to 5 psi to the Webers. (Verified with 3 different fuel gauges I had available.) I swapped the Aeromotive regulator with a billet aluminum Nitrous NX 15952 regulator. A non-recirc model that was advertised to reduce pressure in a range between 1.5 - 11 psi. Turns out that regulator was not as advertised and would not reduce pressure to the carbs below 4.5 psi. I then bought a cheap, over the counter regulator (Spectre) from my local Autozone to test...installed it and the pressure regulator would not respond to adjustment. Perhaps that Spectre was just a faulty regulator. Despite the Spectre regulator looking like a Chinese knock-ff of the Holley 12-804, I reluctantly purchased and installed an official Holley regulator as my last step. The Holley regulator was able to reduce the pressure from the Carter pump to just below 3 psi. So far (about 3 weeks now with this current set-up), I have not experienced any issues (neither pressure nor high speed starvation). No issues with vapor lock either considering my south Lousiana climate. Long story short...based on my experience...you'll need to consider a "systems approach" to whatever you plan on doing. In hindsight, I would still consider a recirc from a (capable) regulator back to the tank if my recirc system was still viable. (My current set-up still shows about less than 1/4 psi outlet variation between idle and high load without a recirc.) The conterweighing opinion is the complexity of a recirc from the engine bay back to the tank (as was the OEM design with my original FI 1.7L with the fuel pump/filter located under the right side bay area). There are alot of options/opinions out there on what path to take. (I'm sharing my initial experiences only as a guide, and in some instances, as a guide on what not to do!) One thing I did notice with the Carter pump, is that it is not a "constant positive pressure" pump once the power is shut off to it...fuel pressure at the carbs immediately bleeds off at loss of power to the pump...this could make a huge difference in the event of an engine bay fire (and my immediate future plans of adding an in bay fire suppression system, such as the BlazeCut). |
nathanxnathan |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 294 Joined: 16-February 18 From: Laguna Beach, CA Member No.: 21,899 Region Association: Southern California ![]() |
The Holley regulator was able to reduce the pressure from the Carter pump to just below 3 psi. That's the combo I've been using for over 15 years, and it's never failed. The Carter pump being rotary vane is high volume low pressure. They say you don't need a regulator, but it is about 5psi iirc, so it's advisable to regulate it. I run it at 3.5 psi. Looking at the regulators at Holley, the non return one that I use specs at 1– 4 psi, but every bypass option is 4–9 or 4.5–9 or higher which I think is high but maybe would work. I use viton tipped needle valves in my Dells. It seems like the return line might complicate the system to make fine tuning at the pressures these carbs like to see more difficult. I'm rethinking, going toward not using the return line — install it in case I want to reverse that decision but cap off the inlet at the tank. Unless there is another regulator option, one with a bypass that allows for adjustment in a lower range? |
CCE |
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#4
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CCE ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 331 Joined: 28-December 21 From: Mexico Member No.: 26,203 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille ![]() ![]() |
The Holley regulator was able to reduce the pressure from the Carter pump to just below 3 psi. That's the combo I've been using for over 15 years, and it's never failed. The Carter pump being rotary vane is high volume low pressure. They say you don't need a regulator, but it is about 5psi iirc, so it's advisable to regulate it. I run it at 3.5 psi. Looking at the regulators at Holley, the non return one that I use specs at 1– 4 psi, but every bypass option is 4–9 or 4.5–9 or higher which I think is high but maybe would work. I use viton tipped needle valves in my Dells. It seems like the return line might complicate the system to make fine tuning at the pressures these carbs like to see more difficult. I'm rethinking, going toward not using the return line — install it in case I want to reverse that decision but cap off the inlet at the tank. Unless there is another regulator option, one with a bypass that allows for adjustment in a lower range? In my case I had no need for the regulator, I installed a redline fuel pump, good for 3 pounds of pressure. Its a tiny pink pump. No fuel return. Works fine, on my dual 44mm carb setup, I don’t know on a 6 cil, will need more, maybe yes. ![]() |
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