How To: Close the Gap on Triangle Window Seal Options

[bbrock]

When I was reassembling my bare metal restoration, I probably spent close to 80 hours installing and adjusting body seals and gaskets. I wanted to get the car as air tight as possible to control cabin noise and leaks. I'm happy to say that my car seals tight enough to feel that pressure bubble when you close a door with top on and windows up like you get with a new modern car.

However, my one trouble spot was the top of the side triangle window. The 914Rubber main front targa seal is nice, but the rubber on mine was just a little too stiff to let the triangle frame to bed in for a proper seal. No amount of adjustment to move the frame forward helped. I even tried wrapping a ratchet strap around the top of the triangle window and windshield frame to pull the frame into the rubber and left it for two weeks to see if it would take a set. It didn't. There was this gap that let water trip in and created significant wind noise in an otherwise suprisingly quiet top on, windows up, cabin.



Here is how I fixed it.

1. Clean the main targa seal, triangle window end cap, and top edge of the triangle window thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol.

2. Smear the triangle window end cap and a few inches of the top edge of the window with a generous, but smooth coat of petroleum jelly. This will act as a release agent for the silicone caulk you are about to apply.



3. Apply a thick bead of black silicone on the targa seal in the area where the gap needs to be filled. Don't worry about getting it smooth at this point. Don't overdo it or you will have more mess to clean up in the next step.



4. Close the door tight and use a lint free cloth soaked with isopropyl alcohol to clean up any silicone that oozes out on the inside. Be thorough with the clean up on this side.

5. Use your finger on the outside to force the silicone into the gap and smooth it out. I had to squirt in a bit more silicone to make sure it was completely filled.



6. When you are satisfied the gap is completely filled with silicone and it looks nice and smooth, carefully go over inside and out with a clean alcohol soaked cloth to tidy up any stray silicone. Much easier at this stage than after silicone has cured. Careful not wipe the petroleum jelly off the end cap though.

7. Leave the car alone for at least 12 hours to let the silicone cure. After the silicone has cured, open the door and clean off the petroleum jelly with alcohol.



You should have a perfect seal and nearly invisible repair. This picture was taken with a flash to better show the cured silicone.



And here is without flash which is more representative of how it looks in natural light.



The small amount of jagged slag is only noticeable if you are looking for it, and disappears when the door is closed, but I'll let the silicone cure a few more days and try to smooth it with some fine sandpaper.



Happy drip and whistle free motoring! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)

[Superhawk996]

Good job on a fix. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Would be far nicer if the targa seal fit properly in the 1st place. The seal material is too hard (not pliable enough) and doesn't have quite the right profile to make proper contact. Like you, I spent many hours adjusting the seal, the window triangle, and even nudging the aluminum track outboard as far as I could without resorting to re-slotting the aluminum tracks.

I hate to bang on 914Rubber since they do so much to support the community. I'm just thinking I need seals that fit more than I need plaid blankets from Scotland. Don't get me wrong I sincerely appreciate that there is a vendor supporting us with the rubber products that we all need. I just think that the 914 has appreciated in value to the point were I'd be willing to pay double if the seal actually replicated OEM form and function.

I actually am saving my OEM seal since it fit noticeably better sealing in that critical area both for water leaks and wind noise. Currently contemplating a hybrid. My OEM seal was perfect on the top but had torn on the driver side bottom where it interfaces with the door seal which is why I replaced it. I just traded one leak path for a worse leak path.

My thinking is that it may be better to use the OEM on the top and then splice in the lower straight sections where there is less going on with respect to all the interfacing surfaces. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) It will be a while before I do it but seems like an experiment worth doing.

Your fix looks like the much easier solution. Let us know how it holds up over time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[mb911]

Good job on a fix. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Would be far nicer if the targa seal fit properly in the 1st place. The seal material is too hard (not pliable enough) and doesn't have quite the right profile to make proper contact. Like you, I spent many hours adjusting the seal, the window triangle, and even nudging the aluminum track outboard as far as I could without resorting to re-slotting the aluminum tracks.

I hate to bang on 914Rubber since they do so much to support the community. I'm just thinking I need seals that fit more than I need plaid blankets from Scotland. Don't get me wrong I sincerely appreciate that there is a vendor supporting us with the rubber products that we all need. I just think that the 914 has appreciated in value to the point were I'd be willing to pay double if the seal actually replicated OEM form and function.

I actually am saving my OEM seal since it fit noticeably better sealing in that critical area both for water leaks and wind noise. Currently contemplating a hybrid. My OEM seal was perfect on the top but had torn on the driver side bottom where it interfaces with the door seal which is why I replaced it. I just traded one leak path for a worse leak path.

My thinking is that it may be better to use the OEM on the top and then splice in the lower straight sections where there is less going on with respect to all the interfacing surfaces. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) It will be a while before I do it but seems like an experiment worth doing.

Your fix looks like the much easier solution. Let us know how it holds up over time. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)


Mine fits the same way and just not happy with it. If I could find an oem one I would buy it. Perfect example of oem vs aftermarket I experienced this past week. Ordered some parts from. 928srus.com and In that order was a Porsche badge seal. It was 12 dollars. I have owned a dozen different porsches over the years including 944s, 911s, 964s etc. Well pull the seal out of the package and it fit the badge like none I have ever purchased before. It fit exactly Perfect. I mean Perfect Perfect.. in all my years I have never had one fit that good. I emailed Roger telling him how nice the seal fit. He responded thank you and said that is the reason why he only sells Porsche badge seals and not aftermarket. My little story just was to express how surprised I was in the difference in fitment.

[Superhawk996]

My little story just was to express how surprised I was in the difference in fitment.

In full disclosure I'm biased since I used to work for an OEM.

I can't tell you the number of hours of design, development and validation that go into something as seemingly simple as seals.

Water test booths that simulates monsoon rain as well as high pressure wash testing. Dust intrusion testing. Door slam testing. Windnoise / Windtunnel testing. Testing in extreme hot and extreme cold. The list goes on and on.

There are most certainly significant differences between OEM and the aftermarket for almost every type of part (sheetmetal, brake pads, tires, seals, etc.) There is a reason OEM service parts cost more and it's not just mark up (though there is a good bit of that too!).

914Rubber has a very hard job and does a pretty good job trying to balance that tight rope between trying to balance tooling costs vs. making a fair profit. Don't want to bash them unnecessarily. I don't envy what they do. But yet, I would glady give an arm and a leg for OEM quality seals that fit.