How To: Close the Gap on Triangle Window Seal Options

[bbrock]

When I was reassembling my bare metal restoration, I probably spent close to 80 hours installing and adjusting body seals and gaskets. I wanted to get the car as air tight as possible to control cabin noise and leaks. I'm happy to say that my car seals tight enough to feel that pressure bubble when you close a door with top on and windows up like you get with a new modern car.

However, my one trouble spot was the top of the side triangle window. The 914Rubber main front targa seal is nice, but the rubber on mine was just a little too stiff to let the triangle frame to bed in for a proper seal. No amount of adjustment to move the frame forward helped. I even tried wrapping a ratchet strap around the top of the triangle window and windshield frame to pull the frame into the rubber and left it for two weeks to see if it would take a set. It didn't. There was this gap that let water trip in and created significant wind noise in an otherwise suprisingly quiet top on, windows up, cabin.



Here is how I fixed it.

1. Clean the main targa seal, triangle window end cap, and top edge of the triangle window thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol.

2. Smear the triangle window end cap and a few inches of the top edge of the window with a generous, but smooth coat of petroleum jelly. This will act as a release agent for the silicone caulk you are about to apply.



3. Apply a thick bead of black silicone on the targa seal in the area where the gap needs to be filled. Don't worry about getting it smooth at this point. Don't overdo it or you will have more mess to clean up in the next step.



4. Close the door tight and use a lint free cloth soaked with isopropyl alcohol to clean up any silicone that oozes out on the inside. Be thorough with the clean up on this side.

5. Use your finger on the outside to force the silicone into the gap and smooth it out. I had to squirt in a bit more silicone to make sure it was completely filled.



6. When you are satisfied the gap is completely filled with silicone and it looks nice and smooth, carefully go over inside and out with a clean alcohol soaked cloth to tidy up any stray silicone. Much easier at this stage than after silicone has cured. Careful not wipe the petroleum jelly off the end cap though.

7. Leave the car alone for at least 12 hours to let the silicone cure. After the silicone has cured, open the door and clean off the petroleum jelly with alcohol.



You should have a perfect seal and nearly invisible repair. This picture was taken with a flash to better show the cured silicone.



And here is without flash which is more representative of how it looks in natural light.



The small amount of jagged slag is only noticeable if you are looking for it, and disappears when the door is closed, but I'll let the silicone cure a few more days and try to smooth it with some fine sandpaper.



Happy drip and whistle free motoring! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)

[bbrock]

@Mikey914

Thanks for this Mark. As others have said, we couldn't restore these cars to the level we do without you. None of this is intended as a dig, just being honest about the realities of installing these aftermarket parts. It is understood that there is a lot to juggle to hit the sweet spot with these.

I'm good on seals. Next on your list I'd like to see that subwoofer box. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I need that fat bottom. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[Superhawk996]

@Mikey914

Thanks for this Mark. As others have said, we couldn't restore these cars to the level we do without you. None of this is intended as a dig, just being honest about the realities of installing these aftermarket parts. It is understood that there is a lot to juggle to hit the sweet spot with these.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I think I've been pretty clear that I appreciate what 914Rubber is doing to support the community.

In my opinion, I'd rather have a part to rework than nothing at all. But having said that, personally, I'm willing to pay more for parts that fit and function exactly like OEM than having to spend time reworking parts which then is time I could have better spent elsewhere.

With respect to the business model, If you gain efficiencies that rightfully should go right to your bottom line. You should adjust your pricing as material prices, tooling, labor costs, shipping, etc., all all going to be going up with inflation. I'd much rather that you make quality parts, cover your costs, make a profit, and stay in business rather than seeing you try to win the race to the bottom that cheap pricing forces.

The flip side of it is the customer experience. I'm not shy about reworking a piece to make it suit my needs. However, there are many others that are feeling frustrated that parts don't fit properly and they either assume they have done something wrong or don't have the tools and skills to rework them. Similarly, as 914's get more appreciation and attention in the restoration trade, shops don't want to be spending $50-$100/hr shop rate to rework parts to fit and then potentially disappointing a high dollar customer when fit & finish isn't 100% correct.

I know intimately what it takes to make these parts, and I don't envy what you do and the tightrope you have to walk trying to make it a viable business model. Just in case it wasn't clear, I appreciate and applaud you for making NLA parts available. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

@Mikey914