Evaporating brake fluid, TIC |
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Evaporating brake fluid, TIC |
930cabman |
Sep 18 2022, 05:26 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,148 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States |
My latest '75 model from Oregon came to me in parts, but mostly complete. I built a 2056 with Elgin cam and twin Weber 40 IDF's and am quite happy with the results. She has a decent kick and gets 30+ mpg cruising over 70 mph. One rear caliper was missing, but I had a newly rebuilt one and changed it out. I used my shop air with about 5 psi to bleed and it worked for the most part. My pedal is about 80% of where I would like it.
Q: where is the brake fluid going? I recently sold my 356SC that had the same issue, but it had a drip in the rear circuit. This time I cannot see leakage anywhere thanks |
Jack Standz |
Sep 30 2022, 08:39 AM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 281 Joined: 15-November 19 From: Happy Place (& surrounding area) Member No.: 23,644 Region Association: None |
Use what you want of course. For my money (and time), it's silicone brake fluid when appropriate.
Track car or street car? OK, don't use silicone brake fluid in your track car. But, (and be honest) do you really flush your brake lines every 12 to 18 months? "Water contamination also leads to corrosion of brake pipes, wheel cylinders, calipers, and master cylinders, resulting in pipe leaks, “frozen” cylinder pistons, accelerated seal wear, and the formation of sludge. Silicone fluids avoid these problems by being non-hygroscopic (not moisture-absorbing), while glycol fluids can absorb as much as 6% water just by being in a “sealed” automotive hydraulic system for a few years. This moisture is generally absorbed from the air. Some moisture even works its way into brake hoses. Most comes from master cylinder cap vents and resultant condensation in the air space above the fluid, and from allowing cans of brake fluid and master cylinders to remain open to the atmosphere for too long." |
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