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bkrantz |
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#1
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,436 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
As I described in my build thread, last year, once I got the engine running, I noticed significant oil drops (or more) after each drive. With winter in full throttle, I decided to drop the motor, and see about fixing the leak.
Here's the view of the front. Maybe you can see some oil. Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
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dr914@autoatlanta.com |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,187 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None ![]() |
you have an aftermarket oil pump, they are very very very hard to seal
As I described in my build thread, last year, once I got the engine running, I noticed significant oil drops (or more) after each drive. With winter in full throttle, I decided to drop the motor, and see about fixing the leak. Here's the view of the front. Maybe you can see some oil. |
930cabman |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,169 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
you have an aftermarket oil pump, they are very very very hard to seal As I described in my build thread, last year, once I got the engine running, I noticed significant oil drops (or more) after each drive. With winter in full throttle, I decided to drop the motor, and see about fixing the leak. Here's the view of the front. Maybe you can see some oil. We have the same concern with an oil leak in this area, also running an aftermarket pump. Thanks to the good doctor. Why are they so hard to seal? covers not flat/ |
Superhawk996 |
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#4
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,219 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
you have an aftermarket oil pump, they are very very very hard to seal As I described in my build thread, last year, once I got the engine running, I noticed significant oil drops (or more) after each drive. With winter in full throttle, I decided to drop the motor, and see about fixing the leak. Here's the view of the front. Maybe you can see some oil. We have the same concern with an oil leak in this area, also running an aftermarket pump. Thanks to the good doctor. Why are they so hard to seal? covers not flat/ T1 pumps OD is usually a few thousandths smaller than the T4 OD. This allows some bleed by between the pump OD and the case. That puts all the sealing duty on that thin paper gasket. |
930cabman |
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#5
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,169 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
you have an aftermarket oil pump, they are very very very hard to seal As I described in my build thread, last year, once I got the engine running, I noticed significant oil drops (or more) after each drive. With winter in full throttle, I decided to drop the motor, and see about fixing the leak. Here's the view of the front. Maybe you can see some oil. We have the same concern with an oil leak in this area, also running an aftermarket pump. Thanks to the good doctor. Why are they so hard to seal? covers not flat/ T1 pumps OD is usually a few thousandths smaller than the T4 OD. This allows some bleed by between the pump OD and the case. That puts all the sealing duty on that thin paper gasket. I have wondered the same. Is this an application for a gasket in a tube? very sparingly of course. Is there a doctor in the house? |
Superhawk996 |
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#6
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,219 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
I have wondered the same. Is this an application for a gasket in a tube? very sparingly of course. No. It’s an application to use the proper T4 oil pump (with a pinned or peened idler shaft). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) T4 pump OD is 2.7565” using a smaller OD T1 pump and gasket in a tube is just a cobble job in my opinion. |
bkrantz |
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#7
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,436 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
I have wondered the same. Is this an application for a gasket in a tube? very sparingly of course. No. It’s an application to use the proper T4 oil pump (with a pinned or peened idler shaft). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) T4 pump OD is 2.7565” using a smaller OD T1 pump and gasket in a tube is just a cobble job in my opinion. OK, what is the proper pump choice in 2023? |
Superhawk996 |
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#8
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,219 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
I have wondered the same. Is this an application for a gasket in a tube? very sparingly of course. No. It’s an application to use the proper T4 oil pump (with a pinned or peened idler shaft). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) T4 pump OD is 2.7565” using a smaller OD T1 pump and gasket in a tube is just a cobble job in my opinion. OK, what is the proper pump choice in 2023? There are plenty of usable T4 pumps floating around still in good shape. Unless the stock T4 pump ingested shrapnel or pumped abrasives like rust, oil pumps don’t really wear much. The main issue with T4 pumps is potential for movement of the idler shaft if the engine is over heated. This can be remedied by peening or pinning the idler shaft to the T4 pump body. I’m well aware this flies in the face of others that use and recommend T1 pumps. They “work” in the most generic sense. I get it, T4 pumps aren’t being made in mass and can’t be purchased new. Well, there are some CNC billet versions being made in Germany but unfortunately those are expensive and have 30mm gears which is overkill for a stock engine. The problem from an engineering perspective is T1 pumps don’t fit properly. At best, they are prone to leak. At worst they compromise oil pressure when the OD is too small and bleeds oil out between the case and the pump body right back to the sump. Wasn’t that long ago this happened to another member on the forum suffering from warm oil pressure issues until he swapped the problem T1 pump for another T1 pump that had a couple thousandths larger OD closer to what the T4 oil pump is. Honestly, it’s a choose your poison thing. Take the time to find a good T4 pump or deal with T1 issues. I’m not suggesting you change your pump given it’s what you already have and have probably tossed the stock T4 pump.. But as others have suggested, it may be contributing to your oil leaking. It’s a catch 22 because if you pile in more gasket sealant or try to stack paper gaskets behind the steel cover - it increases internal pump bypass resulting in lower output pressure. Especially so if someone were to try to use thick stuff like RTV as sealant. Probably the best thing you can do is clean up and dry what you have. Make sure the mounting surface where the pump mates to the case is flat, smooth and sealing properly. Address the front seal while you’re in there. Then use some UV dye in the oil when you fire it back up. Immediately watch that are as best you can and after the 1st drive to see if it’s still leaking and where it’s coming from before it gets to blowing around too much. Visibility in that area sucks with the fan shroud installed - I get it. |
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