Transmission and clutch rebuild, Not shifting smooth regardless of clutch Options

[Wew]

Hi all,
I did a Dr. Evil transmission rebuild a couple years ago and also put a new flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate along with a new clutch cable.
Drove the car about 20 miles and everything worked well. A little tough getting it into first but I think I could have adjusted the clutch and addressed that.
Engine was rebuilt, by your truly and was leaking oil so I dropped the motor several times 3x to track down the leak. Pulled heads and piston cylinders and found one of my problems with piston oil ring missing one of two rings that sandwiches the waffle ring.
Fixed problem, albeit 2 years later and engine and transmission are ready for install again.
Now the transmission and clutch are not behaving. Tighten clutch cable and depress clutch pedal to go through gears and it’s like the clutch is not working. I take my foot off the clutch and can still push through the gears with no noticeable difference in the feel or movement. Now I haven’t lined up the shifter to be spot on however there is no difference between clutch pedal pushed all the way down or the cable totally disconnected.
I look at the shift fork and it seems to be frozen or no play.
I remove transmission and clutch and inspect. When I did the trans rebuild I also got the new fork bracket and plastic bushing and whatever else could be replaced. Of course a new throw out bearing as well.
Move fork back and forth everything moves nicely, maybe my flywheel, clutch disc nipple out, facing towards the rear of the car, and pressure plate (pressure plate fingers had some markings on them) weren’t lined up perfectly. I used the plastic alignment tool again and make sure everything is straight on. Put some swepco grease on the nose and spline of the transmission shaft and up she goes back onto the car.
Everything lines up nicely and slide back in without to much trouble.
The clutch fork rests against the housing towards the front of the car and has about a 1/2” of play towards the back.
Cable back on and tightened and no difference. When clutch pedal is depressed the fork moves, but there is no difference in the feel. Role pin is in place.
I have also put a camera in the center tunnel and cables are routed properly and the brackets for the cable guide tubes are in place.
Where have I gone astray (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[914werke]

So think of the mechanics of the process.
Push pedal, which pulls cable, levering arm on fixed pivot, which holds throw out bearing against pressure plate fingers, releasing friction disc.
There are various consideration in terms of assembly. Yes the Friction disc is asymmetrical & must be installed the correct way, Is the arm secured on the pivot ball with the small fork & not sitting on top of the ball? Are the friction blocks installed on the TO bearing? W/O the cable secured to the arm how much back forth play is present ?
It is usual & normal to need to "shim" the pivot ball further out AFTER cutting a existing FW. For a NEW FW it should not be necessary.