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930cabman |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,188 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Everyone knows how easy (?) bleeding our brakes are, I have tried the friend method, shooting 5 or 10 psi through the MC and gravity method. From what I have seen all have a similar level of success. Prior to replacing a rear caliper the pedal was solid, since the new caliper I can get about 80%.
This old horse must be well beaten by now |
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VaccaRabite |
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En Garde! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 13,765 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
There are three things that happen:
1) air gets bound up in the proportioning valve 2) Some calipers have 2 bleeders, and you only bleed the highest one. 3) You let the master cylinder go dry letting new air into the system. I use a motive power bleeder to help prevent #3. I have also used the "Long tubes" method with speed bleeders. You use a LONG clear tube - long enough to run from the rear pass bleeder back to the reservoir. Pump till you can no longer see bubbles in the line. The res never goes dry as you are always pumping fluid back into it. When one caliper is done, move the tube to the next. Back brakes first then fronts. Either method will get my brakes hard as a rock in very little time. In my experience, you have to choose between a Motive bleeder or speed bleeders. The motive does not have enough pressure to overcome the ball valve in the speed bleeders. But, it does keep the res full, so its still useful. Zach |
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