Putting together a Type IV dry sump system Options

[Flat6forlife]

Hey everyone,

I'm a few weeks away from dropping the drivetrain from my '73 1.7 for a refresh/rebuild. It's an IDF-carbed 2.4L (supposedly, I haven't cracked it open yet) that'll be used mostly for street driving but will see regular autocrosses and occasional track time, hence the dry sump. I've researched for a while and have a decent plan, but I'd love some insight from those who've put them together.

As it stands, the current plan is as follows:
914/6 oil tank with the attached filter
CB or Thorsten Pieper pump (I'd like to retain the OE fan)
Tangerine Racing Oil Cooler and Thermostat setup with the fan
Requisite braided AN lines with appropriate hardware

I see that CSP also makes a pump, but I can't find anyone who has experience with them. The TP pump seems like the best way to go, but the only dry-sumped racer I've seen used the CB to much success. Money isn't an issue for the TP pump; I'll pay for the extra protection and/or simpler installation. The CB needs modification if I've read correctly. Does anyone have a preference?

Also, using the 914/6 tank and its attached filter makes the original filter redundant. Should I run the LN oil filter block-off plate or use a filter relocation adapter to feed an oil cooler (with an inline thermostat) and leave the factory oil cooler in place for two coolers? Maybe double oil filters and the Tangerine oil cooler kit?

I appreciate the insight/assistance! Also, if this has been beaten and covered to death anywhere else, please link it. I'm happy to read and learn that way.

[GregAmy]

I'm running a dry sump in my 914/4 2L 4-banger. CB Performance 2-stage pump with front-mount oil cooler and Canton dry sump tank where there fuel tank used to be (running a frunk-mount fuel cell).

My racer was an Improved Touring A racer in the early 00s that was experiencing pickup problems (and resulting bearing failures) when Hoosier Purple Crack started getting good. It wasn't a problem with quick transient stuff but extended corners like Lime Rock's Big Bend and Watkins Glen's Carousel (Outer Loop) was fragging engines. When I got it to build for vintage/historics I chose to dry sump it and not worry about it. Chris Foley/Tangerine did most of the engineering work.

Glad to assist as I can, but not quite sure what you're asking?

GA

[Flat6forlife]

Glad to assist as I can, but not quite sure what you're asking?

GA

The short of it really was, "will this setup work?" I have lots of help around me for 6-cyls but no one with extensive TIV experience.


Chris, I'm not too worried about fabbing an engine mount bracket; I have the people and tools to help with that if necessary. Also, the TP pump uses M22x1.5 ports for its inlet and outlet, and I'll be able to run -10 or -12 AN fitting/lines for better flow over the CB pump. Not to mention the larger 38mm suction and 26mm pressure gears. I'm certainly interested in internal oiling modifications to the case if there are any surefire ways to clear up restrictions within it. I figure your oil pressure relief valve is a good start. I'm running 205/60 Hoosier Speedsters, so the dry sump will be necessary in my case.

I'll have to make the trip up to Manchester sometime soon for a chat and for some parts. I'm down on LI, and my office is in Milford.

For those wondering, the TP pump nearly fits under the stock shroud but will require a small notch. I don't foresee that being an enormous issue, but I can always pivot if needed.

Greg, I believe I met you at the LRP Historics last year with some of my coworkers from FCP Euro. We chatted briefly about your dry-sump setup which gave me the confidence to pursue this a bit more.