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ogdougy |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 49 Joined: 9-May 22 From: Arizona Member No.: 26,536 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Hello all!
Just making a quick introduction. Made my first 914 purchase just about two weeks ago now and now starting to dive into this car. Its a 73 non-California car with the EB 1.7. 100k ish miles on it with a motor that is leaking like crazy (more on that later). Single 32/36 weber. Classic Auto Air AC unit. Fiberglass GT Flares, Empi Replica Fuchs, and a bunch of shit ripped out of the engine bay. Bout all i know on these (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26536-1652211032.1.jpg) Next to my AE86 Track car that is currently getting a cage welded in (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26536-1652211033.2.jpg) So now getting to the real stuff. I have worked on boxers before, i have an 400 HP ej22 on e85 in my Forester (that needs to get pulled, RIP transmission). But I have never worked on an air cooled one. Right now, i have been doing some basic maintenance that i do when i get a car. Change all fluids, been changing all the hoses on the motor because they look like the original ones, added a catch can, etc.... But of course after changing the oil and pressure washing the bottom on the engine/trans. I notice this thing is pissing oil out the rear main. So i decided with the unknown state of the motor, im just going to do a rebuild. Reading around its seems like the easiest thing is to buy a AApistons 19XX cc or 20XX cc kit. I dont have a horsepower goal in mind. I just want this rebuild and hopefully get close to the same mpgs i had with the 1.7 (30 mpgs on the highway driving between Phoenix and Tucson) The end goal with this motor. I have an entire pertronix flamethrower vacuum dist with the correct coil and plugs. While the 32/36 works for now. I will replace them with 40 IDF webers. Then some new headers and exhaust. The horsepower I get is what I get. Not too big of a concern. Q1: With my motor being a 1.7 i have to get the heads machined to fit the larger cylinders and some massaging of the combustion chambers to get the the compression down. Correct? Q2: Cam choice. Do people run the original 1.7 cam or just get a "street/oem" grind from Web. This was a long one but I look forward to what i can learn! |
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ogdougy |
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#2
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 49 Joined: 9-May 22 From: Arizona Member No.: 26,536 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Making some progress. Engine bay is as good as it gets. I remembered that you cant really see much of the engine bay when you're driving so I calling it good enough here. I did also fix and gusset the firewall lid hinge brackets.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26536-1682305005.1.jpg) Finished all the valve clearances, did the appropriate valve train geometry check, and starting the slow assembly. I also got a box of SS Torx screws from McMaster-Carr to replace every single one of those stupid flat head screws that strip at any possible moment. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26536-1682305005.2.jpg) Carbs and Distributor are only on there to do a fit check and to make sure my CHT sensor and oil pressure sensor fit without any issue. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26536-1682305005.3.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26536-1682305005.4.jpg) On other fronts. I looked over my gas tank and cleaned it up. Coated the outside of it because I had leftover POR 15. The threads on BOTH feed and return were stripped. Since it's carbureted I welded the return shut and welded a AN fitting to the feed side. Bought a tried and true carter pump that I will be mounting under the tank and will be running all the lines. |
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