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DC_neun_vierzehn |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 517 Joined: 16-November 20 From: Delaware Shore Member No.: 24,893 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Looking for some advice and encouragement because I'm ready to say "uncle."
I have a '73 2.0 w/ a fresh 2056 rebuild. Exhaust studs are new. I have new exhaust stud nuts from @rhodyguy . I have new Victor Reinz copper washers and exhaust gaskets. My heat exchangers (HEs) are stock (not stainless). By using the shop vac blow up the tailpipe method, I have detected exhaust leaks on the passenger side (PS) at both exhaust ports as well as at the muffler gasket. Here's the method I used on the driver's side (DS) and it worked perfectly: a dab of Elmer's glue on the copper washers to get them to sit in the heads and used the X pattern to tighten the nuts moving to the next nut after 3 rotations. Worked perfectly, no air leaks. I tried the same method on the PS HE, but it failed to eliminate the air leaks at the head after 5 straight attempts of removing and reinstalling. SO FRUSTRATING. Based off of past threads I found via the search, the only things left to try: 1. Gently file the HE pipes to square them off (use a Sharpie to mark the tops and only file until ink is gone using a large bastard file that will do both pipes simultaneously). I did not do this yet because the pipe ends look flat and clean. When I set one of the copper washers on the top of the pipes they sit flat and even - when I shine a flashlight behind that I don't see any light coming through. 2. Anneal the copper gaskets using a blowtorch - I have no idea how I would get the copper gaskets to sit in the heads after annealing them and then lay on my back underneath them while trying to install the HE sounds a burn victim waiting to happen. How does one do this safely? I'll take any suggestions or encouragement because after spending 4-5 hours on this today, I'm feeling a bit hopeless. |
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ClayPerrine |
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#2
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Life's been good to me so far..... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 16,372 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille ![]() ![]() |
I will add my experience here.
Loose assemble everything in the exhaust system. Don't torque the head bolts until the muffler and the hanger are on the ends of the heat exchangers. I have found that forcing the HEs to fit the muffler results in exhaust leaks at the heads. Get everything assembled. Then tighten up the HE to muffler bolts. Leave the hanger to transmission bolts loose. Torque the heads. Then torque the hanger to transmission bolts. Use a torque wrench on the HE to head bolts (23 Ft Lbs), and don't ever over torque them trying to get them to seal That will cause a pulled head stud and torn HE mounting loops. And that will cause an exhaust leak. Hope that helps. Clay |
DC_neun_vierzehn |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 517 Joined: 16-November 20 From: Delaware Shore Member No.: 24,893 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
I will add my experience here. Loose assemble everything in the exhaust system. Don't torque the head bolts until the muffler and the hanger are on the ends of the heat exchangers. I have found that forcing the HEs to fit the muffler results in exhaust leaks at the heads. Get everything assembled. Then tighten up the HE to muffler bolts. Leave the hanger to transmission bolts loose. Torque the heads. Then torque the hanger to transmission bolts. Use a torque wrench on the HE to head bolts (23 Ft Lbs), and don't ever over torque them trying to get them to seal That will cause a pulled head stud and torn HE mounting loops. And that will cause an exhaust leak. Hope that helps. Clay The HE to head nuts are 23 FT torque? I read it was 14. Can others weigh in here? There's nothing in the Haynes manual. |
DC_neun_vierzehn |
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#4
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 517 Joined: 16-November 20 From: Delaware Shore Member No.: 24,893 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
I will add my experience here. Loose assemble everything in the exhaust system. Don't torque the head bolts until the muffler and the hanger are on the ends of the heat exchangers. I have found that forcing the HEs to fit the muffler results in exhaust leaks at the heads. Get everything assembled. Then tighten up the HE to muffler bolts. Leave the hanger to transmission bolts loose. Torque the heads. Then torque the hanger to transmission bolts. Use a torque wrench on the HE to head bolts (23 Ft Lbs), and don't ever over torque them trying to get them to seal That will cause a pulled head stud and torn HE mounting loops. And that will cause an exhaust leak. Hope that helps. Clay The HE to head nuts are 23 FT torque? I read it was 14. Can others weigh in here? There's nothing in the Haynes manual. I called George at AA and he said 18 was the magic number. |
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