Front Suspension, Do or Delay Options

[DennisV]

How critical is it to replace the bushings and related from suspension components on a car that has sat indoors for 20 years? Is the worst case the handling a little sloppy? Or am I looking at high risk for being stranded or in an accident?

I have been working to get our 1970 914-6 back on the road. Safely and reliably of course.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

I have very limited windows to work on the car. It is in another state. So to avoid this becoming a never ending project, I have tried not to slide into a full restoration. I have focused on:

• Engine rebuild
• Transmission rebuild
• Brake system replacement
• Fuel system replacement

I have access to a lift where the car currently is, and the brakes are off. So I'm real tempted to do the front suspension now. That said, if everything went great that will add another few months before the car would hit the road due to the distance and how frequently I get access to the car.

[technicalninja]

By all means replace at least the rear bushing in the front a-arms. That will have sagged to the point that the torsion bar is rubbing on the ID of the arm, loosing paint protection thus leading to corrosion and torsion bar fracture.

Thanks for sharing. Had not read about this. Are you referring to #22 in the parts catalog?

While in this section, I see a note that front stabilizer is 73-. Is that correct? No front stabilizer on 914-6? Ours currently has one. I assume that since I removed the rear I should remove the front as well. If removed, what goes in its place? Is there a plug for the mount?

The bushings are not broken out in that diagram. They are located at each end of the A-arms. The front are under the two flange brackets directly behind #12 and the rear are under the single loop bracket at the back end (#9 is closest).

If you're going through the BS of changing the rear, you also change the front.
Things that should be looked at are:

A-arm bushings. change

Torsion bars: inspect closely, clean up, maybe paint. threads available

Ball joints: change unless perfect. Many threads have been written about ball joint BS.

Tie rod ends, both inner and outer change unless perfect. Most folks go to a "turbo tie rod set up" but I'd probably keep a real 6 the original design. The inners might just require the internal rubber piece (if just that is available).

Brake stuff/wheel bearings: all new

Struts, inspect, clean, paint or replace.
Strut top rubber mount: replace unless perfect.

I'd completely strip all the painted items and either repaint or powder coat.
Powder coating is stronger but has some teething issues. It's harder to work with and not "correct" if you're trying to stay "stock." The powder coater has to know what they are doing as powder coating incorrect areas can make it impossible to re-assemble. Once again threads are available.

I'd rebuild the rack (take apart, clean all the ancient grease out, inspect, re-assemble.)

If I took the front suspension completely off the car, I'd do the whole shebang.
You will end up with a picture exactly like the second post in this thread...

The holes in the body that the bar passes through were not cut into a car that didn't come with a sway bar. Extensive metal work is required to patch those holes and it would be difficult to restore the factory "look' as the patch panels would be evident.

The A-arms have also had tabs welded to them that would have to be removed. These are actually shown in the diagram, the little u-shaped bracket on the top of the a-arm.

Personally, I'd leave it in. The front bar usually helps the stock cars handle better.
It is a normal period correct mod and will be very difficult to completely erase from the car.

The rear, not so much. Some folks don't like the rear bar at all.


Rick