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> An Electrical 'distribution block' for extra Switched items ?
Literati914
post Sep 20 2023, 03:49 PM
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I'm adding several aux items to the electrical system of my '72.. most of which will be powered thru relays (constant + and switched power). The constant power will be via an extra fuse block that I'm adding over towards the right hand side of the steering column w/ a red power wire directly from the battery.

My question is - can I simply add a single wire from a switched location on the OE fuse block (#9) and run it over to an aftermarket 'distribution block' at the right of the column?

This way I could potentially add several 'switched' relays off of it, as well as just switched/non-relay items.. while not cramming so many extra wires into the stock fuse box. This seems preferable but I can not find an instances of anyone going this route. So in theory it seems logical to me - will this not work ?

https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Distributio...r=1-15&th=1

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technicalninja
post Sep 20 2023, 08:07 PM
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what I meant was not putting varying loads on the feed side of the relay trigger circuits.

Running the other stuff you mentioned is what the relays are for, just through their load paths.

Keep weird shit out of the relays trigger sides, both power and ground, and you will be happier in the long run.

I had a 2012 4Runner in last month...
The AC control head/amplifier would not cycle the compressor off and this car would freeze up. This had been going on since the customer bought the truck 2 years prior and had been to 5 shops which consumed nearly 2K of the customer's money in improper diagnosis.
The last place had wanted to remove the dash and replace the thermistor which is intrusive in the evap core. The estimate was 3600.

It had a "foreign" ground on the negative side of the trigger circuit and because the relay always saw ground it never turned off the compressor.

The hunt was on!

I found a GPS tracking device that some monkey had powered with a nearby RED wire...
Red MUST be power. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Removal of said device fixed the car that nobody could fix.

That last shop that gave the customer the 3.6K estimate also evacuated the system which was under vacuum when it came to me.

Makes it harder for the next shop to diagnose and steals the customers refrigerant!!!

This vehicle has my all-time record for COLDEST. I saw 18.1 F out of this puppy before I fixed it. 35.8 after repair (this is not a record, this is normal for most Toyotas)
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