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Olympic 914 |
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![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,745 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Got an S&S crate motor for the Harley and the Indy put in some Amsoil 20W50 V-twin.
went down the rabbit hole looking at this and other Amsoil products and saw they make a High ZDDP oil called Amzoil Z-Rod, synthetic and specified for flat tappet engines. Anyone here have any experience running it in our engines?? ![]() Kind of expensive, But for what the crate motor cost, its a small price. |
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technicalninja |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,531 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I've also heard of the long drain intervals for Amsoil. No reason to doubt the oil's ability to handle it, but there's no way I'd do that in a vintage aircooled engine. Even if driven regularly. Half of the reason to drain oil regularly is to get rid of combustion by-products that build up in engine oil. There's no way to get around that, and the best oil doesn't eliminate that requirement. I completely agree! Blake and I expected the old school Fiero (86) to wipe out its oil sooner. The Blackstone reports are extremely detailed and show debris levels. The 200K 30-year Fiero was a tiny bit dirtier but not what we were expecting. His testing regime took 3 years to complete. He's got a "book" of reports. I advise early car, non-boosted at 5k synthetic, 2.5k dino Late 10k with synthetic (100%- not a "blend" 1% synthetic is a bend!). I use Mobil1 as it has 95% of the qualities of the Amsoil at 40% of the price. Boosted or high RPM 5K with synthetic. 2-3K with dino. For the most part I use Mobil1 exclusively. The only straight up Dino oil I have right now is some special GTX20/50 for "cLassics" with high ZDDP. This oil I bought specifically for my 75 for initial ressurection mileage. Good chance I'll change to the Amsoil stuff mentioned in this thread... |
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