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Olympic 914 |
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#1
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![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,745 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Got an S&S crate motor for the Harley and the Indy put in some Amsoil 20W50 V-twin.
went down the rabbit hole looking at this and other Amsoil products and saw they make a High ZDDP oil called Amzoil Z-Rod, synthetic and specified for flat tappet engines. Anyone here have any experience running it in our engines?? ![]() Kind of expensive, But for what the crate motor cost, its a small price. |
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gereed75 |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,373 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 15,674 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Been using Mobil 1 20w50 in all my older flat tappet motors. Has 1560 and 1770 phos and zinc.
Designed for air cooled flat tappet motors. Otherwise known as V Twin oil. Highest numbers I know of. |
stownsen914 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 959 Joined: 3-October 06 From: Ossining, NY Member No.: 6,985 Region Association: None ![]() |
I've also heard of the long drain intervals for Amsoil. No reason to doubt the oil's ability to handle it, but there's no way I'd do that in a vintage aircooled engine. Even if driven regularly. Half of the reason to drain oil regularly is to get rid of combustion by-products that build up in engine oil. There's no way to get around that, and the best oil doesn't eliminate that requirement.
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brant |
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#4
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 12,022 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've also heard of the long drain intervals for Amsoil. No reason to doubt the oil's ability to handle it, but there's no way I'd do that in a vintage aircooled engine. Even if driven regularly. Half of the reason to drain oil regularly is to get rid of combustion by-products that build up in engine oil. There's no way to get around that, and the best oil doesn't eliminate that requirement. absolutely agree with this... changing oil not only removes combustion by products... but also removes particulates that the filter missed. I've lost a crank before in a matter of hours when a particulate was in the oil re-circulating around and around.... we change oil every race weekend for just this reason an oil change is much cheaper than a rebuild, or scored part... that even with multiple oil filters on the motor... just safer to change oil often. I stick with the 3k recommendations on street motors...(sometimes 1k on low driven motors) just because oil is cheap. air cooled motors especially as the tolerances on modern motors are so much better... but its still a safe way to operate.. harms nothing to change oil early... and cheap compared to a rebuild. and I'd hate to miss a particulate that went through the cycle for 10K brant |
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