Carb Question about Very High Air Flow on Synchrometer Options

[Craigers17]

Recently I tried installing my new 123 Disty, and, so far, I haven't had success. I ended up putting my old disty back in, and I've got it running again, but it won't hold idle. I put my sychrometer on each stack and they are all reading around 20, which is way high.

Normally, if I have the carbs dialed in correctly, my air flow meter usually reads somewhere from around 5.5 to 7 or so. I've never seen the synchrometer register any where near that high....much less on both carbs. The car did sit non-running for about 6 weeks, so the only thing that immediately comes to mind is that the jets all need cleaning. I'm gonna address that over the weekend, but wondered if anyone here had any ideas as to what might cause the air flow reading to be so high? I only had the car at about 1500 RPM when I took the readings. The carbs are dual 40's, with 28's, and neither the venturis nor any jet sizes or settings have changed in the last 8 months or so.

Any suggestions in pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Superhawk996]

So if it truly wasn’t running 100% I think you are one right track to make sure carbs are 100% clean

The felt wiper seems like a red herring. I’ve never seen an actual rub block made of felt. I have seen lots of felt wipers. The wiper coming off really shouldn’t have affected dwell or anything else either than over a long period of time that would cause a tiny bit more rub block wear.

As stated previously once you come off idle - you can’t judge flow rate by the snail. Flow is non linear as you start to come off idle. This is why EFI running individual throttle bodies is a PiTA to tune. Simple throttle position doesn’t do a great representation of flow just as the throttle begins to open and flow shoots up.

Clean carbs

Focus on basics, fuel, spark, compression, static timing set properly.

New plugs probably in order especially if it wasn’t running right to start. Bad plugs cause confusion.