How good is good enough, DAPO? |
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How good is good enough, DAPO? |
930cabman |
Jan 15 2024, 06:29 AM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,144 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States |
Given this former Cali car is coming up on 50 years and probably not always taken good care of, I am lucky to have this level or rusting. I went after it with Ospho, wire brush and clean rinse. Will be applying POR 15 to this area. Question: my gut tells me the well adhered tar is sound and is not hiding any rusting. |
thomasotten |
Jan 20 2024, 07:18 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,547 Joined: 16-November 03 From: San Antonio, Texas Member No.: 1,349 |
Perhaps I wasn’t clear. Sometimes people get scared into thinking they have a junk car, when it really can be fixed. I remember long ago some advice I was given by someone who told me my car was not worth fixing on account of some visible pitting in the hell hole area. An in depth repair was required but nothing like needing a new chassis. You can take your whole chassis apart spotweld by spotweld at every sign of minor rust, which is in many cases economically unfeasible. But this is also about knowing when to stop cutting. Major rust, yes, cut it out. Then weld a new panel in. But there are instances where, for isolated pitting, one might prefer to keep the original metal in place. Now, you have to use your judgement of course, and know which portions of your chassis are load bearing, and study the reinforcement. Typically, one needs to follow the tech sheets, which , as I pointed out, POR 15’s is vague. These products, and even epoxy primers can be tricky. Some products are DTM, direct to metal. Others require etching to give a mechanical tooth. Coating any bare metal, new or old is essential. But each product should be judged only after following the tech sheets. I would never apply POR-15 to new or smooth metal, because it can flake off.
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