Wilwood big brakes, 914-4 brakes Options

[Freezin 914]

I figure some here will have more info on this, but Wilwood is advertising it has a big brake available for 914-4s. Just in case anyone would be interested. I haven’t even looked it up yet, but seen the ad in Excellence.

[Freezin 914]

Just wanted to let people know, I know I don’t need the bigger brakes, but I know plenty of you have bigger hp 6’s, Suby’s, do autox etc…..

[Shivers]

Just wanted to let people know, I know I don’t need the bigger brakes, but I know plenty of you have bigger hp 6’s, Suby’s, do autox etc…..

Weigh and horsepower make a difference, but the way you drive it also makes a difference what kind of brakes you might want. Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded. So if you are cruising to cars and coffee in it, the stock brakes with some of those cool pads Eric sells will work great.

[GregAmy]

Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded.

You need different pads, brother.

Not speaking to you directly, but it is simply amazing to me how most car guys don't understand how the pad compound you use really makes a substantial difference. Seriously. Many a braking complaint is easily resolved by "the right pad". And many a problem is caused by someone thinking they understand the concepts but getting it wrong ("why are these Hawk Blue pads tearing up my street car's rotors so bad??")

Today's pad compounds are fricken amazing. I would have killed decades ago for this technology*. And today we take it for granted...

I'd be glad to make suggestions, if we could just discuss what you're doing with them and whose pads you prefer.

GA

*Try racing Road America or Road Atlanta with dead-stock pads. That's what we used to have to do in the old Showroom Stock days of the 1980s: stock parts only. I'd go through a set of pads literally every session, and another set 3/4 into the race (seems like the braking got better when it went down to metal-to-metal...but it made a lot of noise).

Lap One Turn One at the Road Atlanta Runoffs smelled like a brake pad factory...

[Superhawk996]

Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded.

You need different pads, brother.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
The main problem though is race pads on the street really suck when pads are cold and first few stops are sketchy.

Ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Freezin 914]

Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded.

You need different pads, brother.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
The main problem though is race pads on the street really suck when pads are cold and first few stops are sketchy.

Ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I have done my fair share of racing in my day…most of the time, race parts are just that, for racing, not street driving, even aggressive street driving. Especially suspension and brakes, tempof the brakes is huge! But also race suspension isn’t really designed for street use. Most roads have bumps, potholes, gravel, etc…stiff race suspension won’t keep the tires in contact with the pavement as a bit softer set up.

Either way, I digress, just happy people seen this thread and are at least talking about it.

As for me, keeping it stock in the brake department, but may use a bit better pads for when I feel the need… (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[Jamie]

Stock worked pretty good for a while. But the braking would become less effective as my drive proceeded.

You need different pads, brother.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
The main problem though is race pads on the street really suck when pads are cold and first few stops are sketchy.

Ask me how I know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I have done my fair share of racing in my day…most of the time, race parts are just that, for racing, not street driving, even aggressive street driving. Especially suspension and brakes, tempof the brakes is huge! But also race suspension isn’t really designed for street use. Most roads have bumps, potholes, gravel, etc…stiff race suspension won’t keep the tires in contact with the pavement as a bit softer set up.

Either way, I digress, just happy people seen this thread and are at least talking about it.

As for me, keeping it stock in the brake department, but may use a bit better pads for when I feel the need… (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

OK gang, for those of us street drivers with mostly stock cars, what brand of pads do you recommend for replacement with stock calipers? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[GregAmy]

OK gang, for those of us street drivers with mostly stock cars, what brand of pads do you recommend for replacement with stock calipers? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

This will quickly devolve inot the same kinda discussions as your favorite tires and motor oil... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Think less "brand" and more "application". Pretty much all major brands of pad manufacturers will offer a pad compound to suit your usage needs. Hawk, for instance:

https://www.tirerack.com/images/pdf/product...ound-Charts.pdf

No pad will do everything, but many pads will do a lot these days.

For my SCCA E Production 2600# car, I race on Hawk DTC70, but that's totally unsuitable for the street. If I had that same car on the street ('08 Civic Si) I'd likely drive on the HPS. Track days, maybe the HT10.

Manufacturers I like to support include Hawk, Carbotech, G-Loc because they support racing. Others with good reps are Porterfield, Brembo, StopTech.

But everyone will have their own opinions... - Greg

[Superhawk996]

OK gang, for those of us street drivers with mostly stock cars, what brand of pads do you recommend for replacement with stock calipers? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

This will quickly devolve inot the same kinda discussions as your favorite tires and motor oil... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Think less "brand" and more "application". Pretty much all major brands of pad manufacturers will offer a pad compound to suit your usage needs. Hawk, for instance:

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) For a link to the data.

Far more important to understand what you are buying vs going by brand or word of mouth.

Generally speaking what you want is a nice flat friction (mu) across temperature for street use. - HPS curve.

A mu curve that is rising with temp will help offset that feeling of fade. The tradeoff for the higher initial friction and rising curve of HP-plus will be noise, pad wear, rotor wear, poor disk thickness variation (ie judder) over time, excessive dust, or some other negative attribute.

HPS 5.0 might seem like a good middle ground but that drop off in Mu after 300-400F is going to feel like bad fade. The flip side being most street drivers will never get their brakes much above 400F. Would depend on how you’re actually using it.

The point being, know what you want and what the tradeoff is to get it. You can’t do that without the friction data.

Most pad suppliers only publish vague marketing claims at worst or force you to contact them to get their data.