1.7 Rebuild First Start Up Advice, 1.7 Start Up on stand Options

[Robroe]

Have 73 1.7 bought in pieces. Engine has been rebuilt and ‘souped up’ however I don’t know what internals were installed. New crank, cam, pistons, rods and heads. but I don’t know which ones. Weber 44 idf carbs. Never had oil in it and been stored unstarted for 10 yrs in climate control. I’ve added oil by slow dripping 2 quarts through the oil pressure sensor hole. Oil dripped out of the rockers so I’m pretty sure it got some oil as pre lube. It’s on a home built test stand with the transmission mounted with the starter.

I’m trying to turn the engine over by hand with the plugs out. Have squirted oil in each plug hole. I’m able to turn the engine by hand about 45 degrees and it gets harder to spin so can’t go any further. Would it be a good idea to pull the rocker arms to see if the builder installed some wild cam without checking valve/piston clearance? It doesn’t feel like internals are hitting each other but who knows? Would hate to pull the heads if I don’t have to. Any thoughts before I break something?

Rob Roe
Newbie

[technicalninja]

With what you just described, I can’t see any scenario where I wouldn’t be taking it apart.

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It's already OUT!

With the plugs and the rockers off it should spin completely free.

You should be able to turn the flywheel/front pully with a single finger and no effort.
"Gripping" should not be required.

You should tear down.

IMO doing anything else is a waste of time. you should be able to get that down to a "short block" with the rods hanging out of the case fairly quickly.

The most likely culprit IMO is a ring that got damaged during installation.

Using a friend supporting the rods that should "free wheel" with zero drag.

During the tear down you should verify both bore and stroke. The 44s it came with should be on a BIG motor, not a small one.

[Robroe]

With what you just described, I can’t see any scenario where I wouldn’t be taking it apart.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

It's already OUT!

With the plugs and the rockers off it should spin completely free.

You should be able to turn the flywheel/front pully with a single finger and no effort.
"Gripping" should not be required.

You should tear down.

IMO doing anything else is a waste of time. you should be able to get that down to a "short block" with the rods hanging out of the case fairly quickly.

The most likely culprit IMO is a ring that got damaged during installation.

Using a friend supporting the rods that should "free wheel" with zero drag.

During the tear down you should verify both bore and stroke. The 44s it came with should be on a BIG motor, not a small one.

Ordered borescope today to look inside cylinders through spark plug holes. Hope to learn more about which pistons were installed (part numbers from tops) and better idea of valves and heads. From there I hope to decide whether to pull the heads for a better look. I”ll probably try to measure piston travel and valve lift too. Would be nice to know a bit more about what I’ve got before trying to start.

The fan is very close to the case. Seems like it might be touching a little as I spin the motor by hand. It’s so pretty with the tin and case powder coated. Hope I don’t have to tear it down too far if at all.

Will post what I find with the scope. Might even figure out how to take pictures.