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Robroe |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Moved from topic of first start of 10 year old build to tear down, inspect and reassemble. The 10 year old build is from a 73 1.7 to a 2270. Stroked to 78 mm and 96 mm cylinder diameter. Heads are Ham/RAT with 36 mm exhaust and 44 mm intake. Both are nicely ported.
Have torn it down to the case and checking crank end play before I split the case and pull the cam and crank. So far, everything is new and looks in good order. I'm concerned about oil passages being blocked with old assembly lube so a complete tear down and reassemble is happening. Discovered stacked cylinder spacers (4) totaling .150". So looking to replace those with single spacers. So far I can only find .160" spacers from type 4 store and may just use them as impact on compression appears minimal. Was shocked to discover crank end play is .450"! Sure glad I didn't try to start this thing. Will check again in the morning to make sure I'm checking it correctly, but I'm doing the same thing on the videos such as Ian Carrs YouTube engine builds so pretty sure I'm checking it correctly. Now to figure out what to do about that huge end play. Any thoughts about what to watch out for? |
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Superhawk996 |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,031 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
Have you gone through the Tom Wilson book? I know there are details in there about how to measure and set crank end play. I can’t remember the details of how Raby covers it in the DVD.
You should also bookmark this link to the factory manual which contains a wealth of information on engine specs, torque values, assembly informations http://p914-6info.net/Manuals.htm |
Robroe |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Have you gone through the Tom Wilson book? I know there are details in there about how to measure and set crank end play. I can’t remember the details of how Raby covers it in the DVD. You should also bookmark this link to the factory manual which contains a wealth of information on engine specs, torque values, assembly informations http://p914-6info.net/Manuals.htm You were right. Crank End play is .045 - .052. Tried to split the case per Jake’s video with partial success. Got the fan end 1/8 “ apart but the flywheel end isn’t moving. Removed all fasteners and check again many times. I’m considering buying a case splitter tool to try to split it evenly to avoid binding when coming apart crooked. Anyone use the splitter from 914Werkes? Hope it works on both ends. The previous builder must have used rtv and gorilla glue! |
Superhawk996 |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,031 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
Crank End play is .045 - .052. Just a point of note: when you put the engine back together you will have to measure more accurately than this. That range of measurement encompasses the TOTAL spec for crank end play. Need to be repeatable at measuring this to within no more than 0.002” at most and really should be to 0.001”. Plenty of time to deal with that at reassembly. However, I’m with Ninja, that 0.045” or anything like that is a huge red flag and means everything needs to be looked at. Could be as simple as an engine built to a high standard and someone threw a flywheel on it to sell. However, I don’t think this is the case given some of the other warning signs we’ve seen like multiple cylinder shims. And just one more reminder - keep everything indexed and organized with respect to where it came from. |
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