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Robroe |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Moved from topic of first start of 10 year old build to tear down, inspect and reassemble. The 10 year old build is from a 73 1.7 to a 2270. Stroked to 78 mm and 96 mm cylinder diameter. Heads are Ham/RAT with 36 mm exhaust and 44 mm intake. Both are nicely ported.
Have torn it down to the case and checking crank end play before I split the case and pull the cam and crank. So far, everything is new and looks in good order. I'm concerned about oil passages being blocked with old assembly lube so a complete tear down and reassemble is happening. Discovered stacked cylinder spacers (4) totaling .150". So looking to replace those with single spacers. So far I can only find .160" spacers from type 4 store and may just use them as impact on compression appears minimal. Was shocked to discover crank end play is .450"! Sure glad I didn't try to start this thing. Will check again in the morning to make sure I'm checking it correctly, but I'm doing the same thing on the videos such as Ian Carrs YouTube engine builds so pretty sure I'm checking it correctly. Now to figure out what to do about that huge end play. Any thoughts about what to watch out for? |
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technicalninja |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,531 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
Here's a thought I just had...
What if the crankshaft end play was .0045 to .0052 and Rodroe is just really, really BAD at reading dial indicators? He had ALL three shims and still reported .040-.052. I don't think that is possible either... His end play is excellent, and his dial indicator readings were with .0007 of each other makes far more sense. Hey Rob, the number of decimals PAST the dot is STUPID important! Was the clearance a tiny little "click" that you can feel but not really see or a significant movement you could see? We want the tiny little click... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif) |
Robroe |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Here's a thought I just had... What if the crankshaft end play was .0045 to .0052 and Rodroe is just really, really BAD at reading dial indicators? He had ALL three shims and still reported .040-.052. I don't think that is possible either... His end play is excellent, and his dial indicator readings were with .0007 of each other makes far more sense. Hey Rob, the number of decimals PAST the dot is STUPID important! Was the clearance a tiny little "click" that you can feel but not really see or a significant movement you could see? We want the tiny little click... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif) The crank movement was large and loud. I could measure it with my tape measure. I would have preferred the little click. Was hoping I was wrong too. Got the case split today thanks to your help. The cam and lifters are a Webcam Raby 2500. Crank is marked 78 mm and stamped 106299 on one of the counterbalances. The rods are marked VW 5.158". |
Robroe |
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#4
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
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Robroe |
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#5
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
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Robroe |
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#6
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
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Robroe |
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#7
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Plan to send case to a machine shop today for hot tanking to get really clean. When back I'll start trial assembly and measure how crank/cam fit. Will watch Jake and Ian's videos again first. Was considering not taking the rods off the crank. Just check torque on rod caps, clean up with brake cleaner and then insert lots of oil. Or, I could take the rods off and do a thorough cleaning of all oil passages and reassemble. Do the cam bearings look usable?
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