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Robroe |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 76 Joined: 10-August 21 From: Wenatchee, WA Member No.: 25,793 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
Moved from topic of first start of 10 year old build to tear down, inspect and reassemble. The 10 year old build is from a 73 1.7 to a 2270. Stroked to 78 mm and 96 mm cylinder diameter. Heads are Ham/RAT with 36 mm exhaust and 44 mm intake. Both are nicely ported.
Have torn it down to the case and checking crank end play before I split the case and pull the cam and crank. So far, everything is new and looks in good order. I'm concerned about oil passages being blocked with old assembly lube so a complete tear down and reassemble is happening. Discovered stacked cylinder spacers (4) totaling .150". So looking to replace those with single spacers. So far I can only find .160" spacers from type 4 store and may just use them as impact on compression appears minimal. Was shocked to discover crank end play is .450"! Sure glad I didn't try to start this thing. Will check again in the morning to make sure I'm checking it correctly, but I'm doing the same thing on the videos such as Ian Carrs YouTube engine builds so pretty sure I'm checking it correctly. Now to figure out what to do about that huge end play. Any thoughts about what to watch out for? |
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technicalninja |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,531 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
7 minute mark in the above video I linked show it.
Two v shaped groves at the rear main seal bore. I believe he cuts them with a triangular file. Additional drain back paths for the rear main seal. Even MORE important if you're using a high pressure/high volume oil pump (which you should be!). Reason for the top one is to allow an air path. You NEED both for it to work properly. |
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