Tear Down and Reassemble Unstarted 1.7 built to 2270, 1.7 to 2270 Unstarted 10 Year Old Build Options

[Robroe]

Moved from topic of first start of 10 year old build to tear down, inspect and reassemble. The 10 year old build is from a 73 1.7 to a 2270. Stroked to 78 mm and 96 mm cylinder diameter. Heads are Ham/RAT with 36 mm exhaust and 44 mm intake. Both are nicely ported.

Have torn it down to the case and checking crank end play before I split the case and pull the cam and crank. So far, everything is new and looks in good order. I'm concerned about oil passages being blocked with old assembly lube so a complete tear down and reassemble is happening. Discovered stacked cylinder spacers (4) totaling .150". So looking to replace those with single spacers. So far I can only find .160" spacers from type 4 store and may just use them as impact on compression appears minimal. Was shocked to discover crank end play is .450"! Sure glad I didn't try to start this thing. Will check again in the morning to make sure I'm checking it correctly, but I'm doing the same thing on the videos such as Ian Carrs YouTube engine builds so pretty sure I'm checking it correctly. Now to figure out what to do about that huge end play.

Any thoughts about what to watch out for?

[technicalninja]

Tip for bearing indexing:

Mark ALL of the rods with a number.
Mark the caps too.
Make these marks at exactly the same place on all rods/caps and I mark the rod/cap interface one side only with a tiny groove that crosses the parting line.
I will intentionally offset the groove mark for each of the four so I CAN use just the groove itself to determine the correct cap for the individual rod.

I once had a set of rods shot peened and lost all of my marks.
The shot peener didn't keep the order indexed when he dissembled them for "final cleaning"

That was a PIA!

Minimum is a sharpie, but I use a vibrating etch tool with a diamond tip and make TINY marks.

If you splurge on the diamond point for that tool it can ONLY be used perfectly vertical.
Deviate slightly and you will get to buy another tip...

When you side the rod bearings out of their journals clean them immediately (B12 is what I use) and sharpie the back sides of each bearing. "1" on the rod side. "1C" on the cap side would be the shells for #1

Watch orientation during disassembly. The bearing locator tabs should face each other.
The bearing should not fall out of the journal.
You should have to "rotate" them out of each journal.
Each bearing should have a tiny bit of overlap regarding how they fit into the journal.
When you "flush out" one side the other side should have a cunt hair of bearing proud of the part line.
This is bearing crush and it's critical. You just need to verify you have a little on each one.
You will be checking that more precisely during assembly.
Keep bearings clean in a compartment container. Doesn't have to be fancy.
I use egg cartons all the time.

After you get everything apart you can check/achieve balancing on some of the parts.
No harder than the grooving you did to the case.
You will need an accurate scale. $15 on Amazon will probably buy you something usable.

If I was that far down, I'd DAMN sure go all the way...