Car won't start easily, Ideas ? Options

[Stef914]

Hi All,

The 914 won’t start easily—please see the attached videos.

I had to do some work in the garage today and wanted to move the car. The engine was cold (I mean, it’s hot as hell in there), but the car hadn't started for a solid week.

Well, it took me well over 10 attempts to finally crank the engine (I started recording a few more attempts before you see the 8 in the video).

https://youtu.be/2e1Zta4ima0?si=XTANkf5B-IJE2HTc

I rolled the car out of the garage, took care of some business for about an hour, then went to turn it on again. Same story, but it took 14 attempts before the engine fired (this time recorded in full on the second video here).

https://youtu.be/5chyRhp0ykg?si=icUl87HgEzDkPIlx

I've noticed this issue sporadically over the last year or so, both on cold and hot starts, but it has never taken more than 3 attempts before it would actually start.

I always disconnect the battery when I park the car. By the way, the battery is basically new—a red Optima with a reading of 12.47 (see the attached photo hopefully) and a WOS Performance Starter Motor that’s brand new (less than a year old).

Is this a sign of a bad ignition switch? I know it could be hundreds of different things, but I’m trying to narrow down the issue here. If you’ve had or seen something like this happening with your cars, any insight would be greatly appreciated.

If it is the ignition switch, can anyone point out where to get one? If a reproduction even exist... I can’t seem to find it on pelican parts or PMB performance... Also, what else would you check or address that might cause this?

As always, thank you very much in advance!

Stefano

[Superhawk996]

Unfortunately, most shops are pretty ignorant of the nuance of 914 starter / ignition switch system and they tend to waste your money throwing parts at the problem. This has been going on for decades.

Safety is of the utmost importance.

For my entire life I’ve never had a lift. This can be done without lifting the car at all, but you’ll be on your back (depending on size of your chest /belly) stretching to reach stuff.

Here’s how I do it:
Get alligator clips for your DMM test leads or use alligator clip test leads to extend DMM test leads as necessary. What you want to be able to achieve is to have the DMM within your view while you are in cabin and moving key to start position. Alligator clip test leads of various lengths they are worth having for many things. $20 gets you a decent set 16ga wire rated 10A. 20-30” long + length of DMM test leads is enough to get the meter out to your door sill.

Lift car so wheels don’t touch ground. Use jack stands properly.

I still make sure vehicle is in neutral.

Remove the yellow wire from the spade terminal on the solenoid.

Red test lead to the yellow wire. Black test lead to engine / transmission metal (engine ground).

Turn key to start position. Should have battery voltage (12v) at the yellow wire. If you have no voltage at all, gently wiggle the key a bit, up/down, side to side. When the ignition switch is first failing, sometime the wiggle is enough to get it to contact.

If you have 12v on the yellow solenoid wire, you immediately know it isn’t the ignition switch and can rule that out.

If you don’t have 12v, immediately move the DMM black test lead the battery negative terminal and re-measure. Alternatively you can use a jumper cable to go between battery negative and the transmission housing. Be sure trans jumper contact is good, not grease / oil covered. Sudden appearance of 12v on DMM indicates you have a ground issue.

Lack of 12v after measuring between yellow solenoid wire and battery negative still could be other issues besides the ignition switch.

Start with these basics and see where your car is at.