New Rotors and Calipers, Parts/tool list - missing anything? Options

[FlacaProductions]

Greetings,

Gathering parts and knowledge to put new rotors and calipers on my 74 2.0. I’ve read a lot of threads and I think I have a pretty good grip of the process.

What am I missing? Still need/don’t need?

I have the PMB kit coming which is:
Rebuilt OEM Calipers
pre-loaded with PMB-C Ceramic Brake Pads
DirectFit Brake Pad Hardware
Sebro rotors front and rear
PMB stainless lines
bearings for all 4 wheels
front seals

I have:
-Motiv power bleeder
-ATE DOT 4 fluid
-Bleeder/line caps

Thinking Swepco Moly 101 for grease (how much do I need?)

Do I need?:
-Speedbleeders? I think yes.
If still possible, should I have PMB install them so they’re good to go? If not, what’s the best source? Which part number? Are there different manufacturers?

-A bearing/race tool or can I count on using the old races to drive in the new ones? Figuring an Amazon or Harbor Freight version will be good enough for me.

-seal remover for the front seals? source?

-new front bearing caps? (am i going to screw these up on removal?)

Thank you!

[technicalninja]

Bearing packer.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-Handy-Pa...23402&psc=1

Race driver.

https://www.amazon.com/BTSHUB-Carrying-Univ...63669&psc=1

You have NEW rotors and bearings. You don't need to pull the seals anyways, but a screwdriver will work fine.

How do you front caps look? They can get mauled with age and previous removal.
I'm prone to replacing 50 year old caps unless they look MINT.

My Serbo front rotors (PMB) do not have new races installed so removing them is not an issue.

That seal driver is one of my oldest/most destroyed tools I own. It's all "mushroomed" now and I've cleaned up that end of the tool 5 or 6 times over the last 40 years.
I use it for ALL SORTS of stuff including using the adaptors for doing stuff on my 25 ton press. A 'cheapy one" has worked fine for me. Has to be made out of aluminum in my book.

It's not that hard to pack bearings by hand, PM me if I can help.
I will say that AFTER I got my bearing packer I NO LONGER pack bearings by hand.
And the packer uses the center section to apply pressure to the grease reservoir.
You CAN pack by "hand" but it is SHITLOADS easier to step on that puppy!

As for the bleeders, I've never used speed bleeders, the 914 is easy to bleed (compare to a Prius and you'll understand).
But lots of folks swear by them. They look like they COULD be easier to me.

I have a "Vacula" brake bleeder, I'm VERY used to it. I made modifications to it to make it easier to use (reduce flow).
I'm a proponent of PULLING the brake fluid though the lines...

That same Prius has the very easiest to bleed REAR system ever made!
It will slightly pressurize the system electronically. You put into the first step of bleeding, turn the pump on, and merely open the rear bleeders.
Critter bleeds itself at a reasonable flow rate.
Works KICK ASS!

Sadly, there are 10-15 FURTHER steps due to ABS and MOSTLY the power regeneration BS that a Prius does during braking.
It takes ME a couple of hours and 3+ quarts of fluid to get it done.

All the above is to show that a pressurized bleeder will probably work BETTER than my vacuum one. I would be nervous about leakage (at reservoir/lines/master cylinder) especially on a car I've just painted and restored.

Pressurized bleed systems are better, but you've got to be more careful regarding leaks.

EDIT: I left of an important first step...

Clean the new front wheel bearings of any "anti-rust" stuff (B12) and when clean test the fit of the bearings on the stubs. I'd want ALMOST interference fit. You should be able to merely slide the bearing on the shaft with no force but have to be at the exact correct angle to do it.
Check fit of bearing to stub at proper installation depth. Shouldn't be loose and floppy.

Find lots of clearance? New strut housings are the proper answer.
I have "peened" shafts before and used bearing retention Loctite as well when I didn't have the option of new parts.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Loctite-Stre...51189&psc=1

I also try my hardest to NOT install bearings that are made in China. For a 914 German production would be worth double the price.