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Mr.Vman |
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 27 Joined: 1-October 24 From: Sierra Vista, AZ. Member No.: 28,388 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
1976 914 has the, "DPD" dealer installed AC. Still has what appears to be a nonfunctioning Mini Your compressor. Questions; Auto Atlanta has a ribbed belt compressor drive along with what appears to be a, Sanden like compressor. Any experience or information on that set up? Auto Atlanta also has, what appears to be a two condenser front trunk up grade kit. Any experience or information on that kit? I know the AC kits were marginal and should be not used, roll down the windows, take the top off. I get it. My plan is to make the AC reasonably function. Any other information or sources? I talked to Gilmore about a compressor mounting, also ICE, waiting for him to get back with me. ICE is knowledgeable about 914 AC systems. Thanks in advance, Steve V.
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technicalninja |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,531 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
Another tip is to completely remove ALL of the original mineral oil.
Anything that gets re-used should be flushed. I use real AC flush (I'm brand specific, "MasterChem" by Santech is my poison) then double the amount of cheap alcohol. Home Depot/Lowes/Paint store are my sources. The alcohol removes stuff the flush won't get, and it clears the flush out of the system. It evaporates quickly and leaves nothing behind. On something poisoned (compressor failure and trash in system) I'll start with B12 (liquid version) before the flush. Each chemical does a better job than the others on specific debris. Make sure the condenser you choose is a modern multi-pass "flat tube" design. This style of condenser is 30-40% more efficient at removing heat as the refrigerant has to get CLOSE to the aluminum. Any 134 conversion NEEDS this style of condenser. I've placed two flat fin conversions in the last month. A 93 Toyota Truck and an 88 Fiero. The Toyota I could just purchase. One manufacture offered flat fin in the past. I believe I purchased the last one in existence. It had an "apology" note inside the box "It looks different, but it will work". It should have said "It looks different and works 40% better!" I had to adapt a "universal" core into the Fiero. Fabrication and hose adaption was required. I haven't seen the dual core from AA. If it's flat fin it's worth trying. If you need even more cooling, you have the option of adding a third condenser in the back. All this trouble only happens when stopped. 30 mph usually solves the airflow issue. Having the entrance and exit from the condenser directly together doesn't help "stopped" at all. And, on a 914, running the condenser in the stock location, I'd want some sort of indicator light on the dash that let me know when the high-pressure cutoff activated. Most HP cutout operate at 400+psi, only drop to 325 (or more) before they re-engage. Re-engaging any compressor at 325 IS HARD on the compressor. It's HARD on the belt drive as well. Nothing good comes from bouncing one off of the HP switch. It's common to see 425-cut off-325 in 10 seconds-on-back to 425 10 seconds later. The damn thing just hammers the dogshit out of the compressor every 20 seconds. Doesn't cool at all either. A warning light that says "TURN OFF AC" should be included in everything in my book... Staying R12 makes this far less likely to happen. It still CAN and most R12 systems do not have a HP cutout anyway. The mechanical solution is a blowout plug or spring-loaded pressure relief valve. Once the mechanical valves function the first time they usually leak from then on and it's worse with 134. Lose a blowout plug in a receiver dryer or compressor at 500 plus and you WILL remember it. Sounds like a shotgun blast followed by a HUGE cloud of "smoke". The car "blew up and is on fire" is what you think. The modern core will help the evaporator too. The modern stuff has "shrank" 50% over the years. Less can be more. I've NEVER replaced the evap core on a conversion. The serpentine big tube stuff usually works fine even down here in Hell. I DO replace the expansion valve with one "tuned" for R134. They are actually pretty close, the R12 one will work but the correct one will be 2-3 degrees cooler. Could you provide a link to the AA parts in question. I would check them out. I seem to have some weird mental incapacity to find anything on his site and Google doesn't seem to either. Rick |
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