Fred's 2375 Rebuild Thread Options

[friethmiller]

[A softball question for the Ninja and/or others]

This is the cam card that came with my 2357 engine, which was originally built by Rimco/Fat (long block) a few years ago. Can someone explain why with an intake/exhaust of 448, the lift was only set to 327 degrees? I'm about to rebuild my motor and a lot of focus will be directed at piston "deck clearance" and the valve train geometry that wasn't set correctly. Thanks.

[technicalninja]

Reality check...

I never said anything because it was not my place, you seemed very enthusiastic and a super nice guy...

Your engine SUCKED DONKEY BALLS!

If you remember the point at which I was driving the car...

Did I ever say, "Oh this is bad-assed"!

I remember thinking "NFW I'd have spent big bucks on this level of performance".

It "felt" like maybe 130hp, 100 at the wheels...

I was NOT impressed!

The cam, the build quality, the tuning was way off!

Makes sense now.

Thanks for the pictures!

You're NOT going to like what I see...

If this is a 6k mile motor, you got screwed.

Your bearings look a SHITLOAD worse than the bearings I pulled out of a "dead" core 2.0L I bought from 914sixer.

Your cam shit is trashed. The cam bearings show mis-alignment too!

The level of deposits on the head and piston crown looks BOTH too rich/un-tuned AND bad oil consumption...

Bores don't look great either.

That critter WOULD get the line bore checked/done. Registers milled. Crank micro polished (minimum) or turned. The most forward (towards belt) rod journal on the crank looks like it might require machine work.

I didn't notice any evidence of balancing on that crank (weird small drill marks that don't look factory.) These look like someone was starting a hole. It's normal to have more than one and the holes are almost always at differing depths. The last one usually just barely marks the surface. Don't see of that at all!

The flywheel is "juicier" than it should be at 6K. Leaking from flywheel bolts (you can see the streaks).

No "Raby" RMS mods. This is "low hanging fruit' and should be done on ANY rebuild, even cheap ass ones, as it costs nothing...

If you want, you're welcome to bring that stuff up to my shop and I'll do a HARSH inspection while you're looking on.

I'd have had those valves out of the heads early...

And the saddest point of all...

I can assess customers freaking fast! In just a few minutes I can tell if the customer is price sensitive and how much trouble I'm going to have with them.
This comes from 40 years of dealing with differing levels of customers.

You're NOT a cheapskate!
After properly explaining why I'd EXPECT you to take the "more correct route" over the "more economical route" (there are ALWAYS at least two ways to skin the cat).

You have money too!
Maybe not shitloads but more than enough to properly build a T4.

And you got taken advantage of...

Ninja sad, sympathetic with customer...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

[friethmiller]

Reality check...

I never said anything because it was not my place, you seemed very enthusiastic and a super nice guy...

Your engine SUCKED DONKEY BALLS!

If you remember the point at which I was driving the car...

Did I ever say, "Oh this is bad-assed"!

I remember thinking "NFW I'd have spent big bucks on this level of performance".

It "felt" like maybe 130hp, 100 at the wheels...

I was NOT impressed!

The cam, the build quality, the tuning was way off!

Makes sense now.

Thanks for the pictures!

You're NOT going to like what I see...

If this is a 6k mile motor, you got screwed.

Your bearings look a SHITLOAD worse than the bearings I pulled out of a "dead" core 2.0L I bought from 914sixer.

Your cam shit is trashed. The cam bearings show mis-alignment too!

The level of deposits on the head and piston crown looks BOTH too rich/un-tuned AND bad oil consumption...

Bores don't look great either.

That critter WOULD get the line bore checked/done. Registers milled. Crank micro polished (minimum) or turned. The most forward (towards belt) rod journal on the crank looks like it might require machine work.

I didn't notice any evidence of balancing on that crank (weird small drill marks that don't look factory.) These look like someone was starting a hole. It's normal to have more than one and the holes are almost always at differing depths. The last one usually just barely marks the surface. Don't see of that at all!

The flywheel is "juicier" than it should be at 6K. Leaking from flywheel bolts (you can see the streaks).

No "Raby" RMS mods. This is "low hanging fruit' and should be done on ANY rebuild, even cheap ass ones, as it costs nothing...

If you want, you're welcome to bring that stuff up to my shop and I'll do a HARSH inspection while you're looking on.

I'd have had those valves out of the heads early...

And the saddest point of all...

I can assess customers freaking fast! In just a few minutes I can tell if the customer is price sensitive and how much trouble I'm going to have with them.
This comes from 40 years of dealing with differing levels of customers.

You're NOT a cheapskate!
After properly explaining why I'd EXPECT you to take the "more correct route" over the "more economical route" (there are ALWAYS at least two ways to skin the cat).

You have money too!
Maybe not shitloads but more than enough to properly build a T4.

And you got taken advantage of...

Ninja sad, sympathetic with customer...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I appreciate your honesty, Rick! I don't need my sh1t sugar-coated. I was never happy with the performance of this build. either. Question is, what's the path forward? There's not a lot of bearing options with a crank that is already -.10 on the mains and -.20 on the rod journals, I don't think. Perhaps a new crank (at whatever size) that will take STD bearings, new cam setup (lifters/pushrods), and new 96mm jugs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Regardless, the case is going to a trusted shop that will inspect/machine, if necessary. Just need to find that place.