Fred's 2375 Rebuild Thread Options

[friethmiller]

[A softball question for the Ninja and/or others]

This is the cam card that came with my 2357 engine, which was originally built by Rimco/Fat (long block) a few years ago. Can someone explain why with an intake/exhaust of 448, the lift was only set to 327 degrees? I'm about to rebuild my motor and a lot of focus will be directed at piston "deck clearance" and the valve train geometry that wasn't set correctly. Thanks.

[technicalninja]

I would LOVE to know why the pics don't post over.
They show up in "preview" just fine but when you try to include them in the reply you look like a moron...
Sometimes they post over fine as well
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Engine pics

Tear down:

#3 Main (split) Bearing. Notice scoring on backside. Plastigauge says clearance is between .002 - .003 but closer to .003 (too much clearance).





Not sure how damaged those are, might be less than it looks. I'd check crank for straightness first.

Camshaft Bearings:




These look worse than the mains...
They look "pinched"
There IS a chance that it is because of the bearing manufacture and all do this now.
This MIGHT be "normal". I'd install the cam and old bearings in the case halves and see "how it fit" If I could.


Crankshaft:



Crankcase:


I'm not seeing fresh machine work here...
Did they just "verify" line bore or do it?

More Pics:

Note: any perpendicular marks are from my dial bore gauge

More pics of main bearings:



Bearing #1 (small one): Looks like a tiny bit off center, not horrible.



Bearing #2:



Bearing #3: See previous images of split bearing.

Bearing #4 (Rear main):


These bearings look OK to me

Heads (cylinder side):



This shows the area I would want machined perfect before the engine went back together. Where the jug "contacts" is what I'm after. The far-left chamber appears "brinelled" in this area. Small pits of material are missing. This is the most stressed seal surface in the engine. The Nickies fix here is to go big bore in the OD (requiring machine work to heads) and then using THICK walls. You're stuck with THIN!
This is one of "limiters" on this engine and needs to be PERFECT!.
Improving that seal is the reason I would research higher strength head studs. (mentioned before).

@Superhawk996 , can you please post the pic of your Nickies showing this?
That would help me emphasize this point.

I'd check the crank for straightness with a set of V-blocks. You can half/ass do this with the main bearings, one case halve, and the crank. Install end bearings on crank, drop in case. Dial indicator on center journal, rotate crank.

V-blocks mounted on a bench makes it easier and allows you to check "run out" on any of the journals.
If the crank is bent...
This is easy and inexpensive to test as long as you already have the dial indicator.
V blocks can be made out of anything. Metal and hard plastic are better IMO.