Bypass Valve on Stock Oil Filter Console, Looking for relief pressure of bypass valve to help with design of remote oil filter and cooler Options

[Mr Beckstar]

Hi all.

I have a 4 cylinder 2 litre and am adding a remote oil filter and oil cooler circuit via a spin on adaptor attached to the stock oil filter console mount. But I noticed the oil filter bypass valve in the stock oil filter mount (circled in photo below) and now I’m concerned that, at high rpm, I’ll be bypassing the remote cooler/filter circuit. Does anyone know the bypass valve relief pressure setting? Knowing that would at least allow me to judge whether it’s an issue.

[technicalninja]

I’m also a mechanical engineer and done a fair bit of test work/condition monitoring in my life

Sweet - so let’s review the check valve. It works via differential pressure that is a function of the area of the check ball exposed on the filter supply side (which is smaller) and the area of the check ball that is behind the filter (which is larger).

The spring that is there is very low rate and basically exists only to keep the check ball in contact with the orifice during initial start up before oil travels through the filter media reaching the back side of the check ball.

So how exactly are you going to modify the check valve to adjust the pressure at which it operates since that is a function of the exposed ball areas on each side of the orifice?

Basically your options are plug it completely or design your own check valve by altering the ratio of exposed check ball areas.

Food for thought.

Thanks Hawk!
I'd never thought about it before, modifying that will be almost untestable.

Every modification I've ever done (or seen!) to these was to plug them off which is GRAVY to do.

No one has said "lets increase the bypass pressure point".

It's always been "plug that crap OFF".

[Mr Beckstar]

I’m also a mechanical engineer and done a fair bit of test work/condition monitoring in my life

Sweet - so let’s review the check valve. It works via differential pressure that is a function of the area of the check ball exposed on the filter supply side (which is smaller) and the area of the check ball that is behind the filter (which is larger).

The spring that is there is very low rate and basically exists only to keep the check ball in contact with the orifice during initial start up before oil travels through the filter media reaching the back side of the check ball.

So how exactly are you going to modify the check valve to adjust the pressure at which it operates since that is a function of the exposed ball areas on each side of the orifice?

Basically your options are plug it completely or design your own check valve by altering the ratio of exposed check ball areas.

Food for thought.

Thanks Hawk!
I'd never thought about it before, modifying that will be almost untestable.

Every modification I've ever done (or seen!) to these was to plug them off which is GRAVY to do.

No one has said "lets increase the bypass pressure point".

It's always been "plug that crap OFF".

I want to make sure I don’t create an excess pressure issue for the stock oil pump but I also want to make sure whatever I do works. A stronger spring will compensate for the extra backpressure of the remote filter/cooling circuit. I’m a bit concerned about blocking it completely, but maybe I shouldn’t be? I’ve used 5/8” full flow fittings and hose, and the cooler and remote filter mount use -10 ORB (5/8” O-ring sealed) fittings. I’m just not sure whether that setup will result in peak backpressure with hot oil of eg 5 PSI (ie in the the remote circuit) or something much larger.